dharmachef

2010-09-29T09:06:00.000-07:00

I've found myself avoiding facebook the last few weeks for some reason ... so now I'm on the road again I thought I'd have a go at reviving the blog .....

So welcome back dear readers on this latest adventure.

The reason (excuse?) for this trip is to complete phase two of the reconstruction of my teeth under the able direction of Dr. Chanika at Grace Dental here in Chaing Mai .... the right side was completed last trip and I've been looking forward to being able to chew well on the other side of my mouth!

The fact that major renovations on our house at Birch Lake are in full swing (and anyone who knows me knows how I just love the chaos and dust of renos!) and that my itchy feet were becoming unbearable may have been minor contributing factors to my decision to embark on yet another Asian adventure.

I booked myself out of Vancouver to Bangkok via Beijing on Air China .... cheap, but that's about all the good I can say .... I thought that because they recently joined the Star Alliance (think Air Canada, Lufthansa, Swiss Air) their standards couldn't be that bad, but alas, I was wrong.

The plane was stuffy, prior seat selection cancelled, the seats themselves cramped and pretty hard after 12 hours. I thought I might down a couple of scotches and try and sleep (my usual strategy) but the only alchoholic drink I could get was half a paper cup of terrible Chinese wine. ....

So it was with some relief when I finally got to Bangkok, tired and a bit crotchety to be welcomed by a lovley Thai lady at the airport representing my hotel and whisked downtown to the most comfortable and spotless SILQ hotel.

The next morning it was off to Wat Po home of one of Thailand's oldest and most respected massage and traditional medicine schools for a 2 hour massage. No better way to get the kinks out of long haul jet travel!

Wat Po is also the home of a huge reclining Golden Buddha.

On the road again ......

2010-03-18T16:09:00.000-07:00

Those of you that know me know that it's unlikely I'd be able to stay in one place too long ..... so having finally settled back in Canada ... with a lovley home and community at Birch Lake .... and a fabulous woman to share it with ... I'm leaving it all and setting off on a new adventure.

Actually there are also some other reasons for leaving on another expedition - not that I need any encouragement.

I'm on my way to Thailand to address some minor health issues - hypertension and GERD (time to get off the pills!) and get my teeth fixed - a crown and a bridge that will set me back thousands in Canada - and can be done at a fraction of the price in Asia.

I've booked in for two weeks at Tao Gardens in Chiang Mai (http://www.tao-garden.com) After that we will see - a few possibilities - the mountains or perhaps the long way overland to Europe by train - or directly home.

Currently, though, I'm in Taipei ... Taiwan - a convenient stopover to break the trip, recover from jet lag, avoid flying into Bangkok, and visit a place a bit off the usual Asian travel trail.

First impressions are of a modern, industrialized nation - clean, organized and fairly prosperous - abit like a Chinese Singapore. On other hand once out of the city, it's stunningly beautiful, mountainous with lot's of hot springs, great hiking, and an excellant transportaion system.

It's only been 48 hrs ... but here are the first pics .....

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/DharmaChef/TaiwanBlog1?feat=directlink

Facebook pictures ...

2008-06-25T13:58:00.000-07:00

Times change ... there's always something new ... go to my facebook page and albums for updates ...
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=40809&l=d9884&id=559766964

Agonda

2008-05-31T21:49:00.000-07:00

Well I must admit to having been a very lazy blogger the last few months

Upon coming back from Ladakh I took my rented Passion (an ageing 100cc motorbike) to southern Goa and stayed for a couple of nights at Agonda ...

Summer rice paddies near Agonda ...

First Leh photos ... and one of Delhi ...

2008-01-21T20:56:00.000-08:00

Back in Delhi .....

2008-01-21T02:44:00.000-08:00

It took a couple of days, but finally I heard the sound of a plane ...

I was lucky enough to get seat on the first plane out .. Air Deccan. The delay was due to the runway taking time to be cleared. Over 300 soldiers took 36 hours to clear the runway alone .... by hand! More were working on the taxiways. When we were ready to take off they lined the runway, huddled in groups, brooms and shovels in hand, and waved at us as we roared down the runway ... a very moving sight.

The Himalayas were absolutly stunning as we threaded our way out of the Leh valley. The snowfall was the biggest in many years, and that is great news not only for the Ladakhi's but the millions and millions who rely on the rivers that flow from the mountains.

I sat next to a Zanskari man on the plane who had walked out of the Zanskar via the Chaddar trek to Leh a few days before. He had fallen into the river twice he said ... my decision not to do the trek seems to have been a wise one!

I'm now back in Delhi, which, unlike my previous experiences is quite pleasant - much cooler now it's winter, and I'm much more comfortable with the chaos and craziness of the place.

I spent the morning at the big Appollo Hospital here in Delhi, having a major physical - long overdue - before heading off to Rajestan in a couple of days.

What am I doing here?

2008-01-18T04:08:00.000-08:00

"Here" is Leh, capital of Ladakh, the northernmost part of India, nestled at 11,500 ft in the Himalayas above Kashmir.

I arrived here by air on Wednesday on an Indian Air flight from Delhi. The road into Leh is closed from October to June and the only way in, or out, is by air.

The arrival was spectacular as the Airbus 320 maneuvered between the snowcapped mountains to the airstrip that is operated by the Indian Army. There's a large base here, and the flight was full of soldiers - I was one of two westerners aboard.

I came here to be in the Himalayas again, which had so captivated me last year when I went trekking in Nepal. The plan was to acclimatize for a couple of days and then do the Chadar trek, a famous route up the frozen Zanskar River to Padum.

Despite the large military presence, it immediately felt good to be here among the smiling faces of the Ladakhi's (who are very similar to the Buddhist mountain people I encountered in Nepal.) Gompas, chorterns, prayer wheeels. prayer flags are everywhere.

I was warmly received at Padme Guest House - which is a good thing since I was freezing ... the temperature was about -5 when I arrived. Pretty soon it started to snow, and I began to feel the effects of high altitude - headache, nausea and later that night sleeplessness. As it turns out I'm the only person staying at the guesthouse - my hosts gave me a gas heater, lot's of blankets and an invitation to take my breakfast and dinner with them.

The snow continued, and after a pretty rough night, woke up to a blanket of about 3 cm snow .... which continued all day. Apparently this is the most snow they have had up here in years, and everyone is pretty happy about it.

I managed to do a pretty good fall on the ice yesterday and fell on my back - nothing serious, but a bit stiff and sore now.

This along with the snow and altitude problems, has led me to have second thoughts about doing the trek ... which is described as being quite challenging.

There was more snow today but it finally has stopped this evening, however more is forecast for tomorrow and the next five days. I'm booked on a flight back to Delhi tomorrow, but not sure if the airport will be open. It's been closed since I arrived, so I may be here for awhile!

The people here are incredibly tough, and many quite poor. There is quite a large tourist infrastructure here ... restaurants, guesthouses, trekking companies etc, but most all are closed. Some people in the tourist business work in Goa for the winter - I can see why now!!

Despite the cold (it's -10 now going down to -25 tonight)it's still a fascinating place, that I hope to return to when it's warmer.

Depending on the weather I may still be here for a while ... if so I'll try and post some photos ...

Update and contact info

2007-11-10T18:27:00.000-08:00

Just a quick update - for those that were wondering what happened to me ...

I finally arrived in Goa to a warm welcome ... Ajit picked me up at the airport and whisked me off to Wendy's in Anjuna as soon as I arrived
.
It's hot here ... getting up to 36C during the day and very humid - everyone is waiting for the winter cool down here. Things are still very greeen from the monsoon - so lush. Lot's of wildlife around ... including the pesky monkeys who pass through, jumping on the roof making a hell of a noise.
I bought a pedal bike to get around locally and hired a scooter for longer trips .... however I pulled my back on Thursday washing dishes of all things! Put me flat on my back for a couple of days ... now on the mend and hobbling around, but slowed me down a bit.

Phone is finally hooked up ... the number is 9881335128. The country code for India is 91.

Pictures soon!

Saskatoon to Sri Lanka ...

2007-10-26T05:58:00.000-07:00

Greetings from Colombo, Sri Lanka ...

Sri Lanka? Well it's not where I expected to be tonight, I'd hoped to be in Goa with Wendy last Monday, but then the course of true love never seems to run in a straight line.

I returned to Saskatoon from the left coast the beginning of October just in time to greet Uncle Desmond (he's not really my Uncle, more like my mum's first cousin or something, but that's just a technicality - he's the closest I've ever come to having a real Uncle - but i digress) who flew in from Cardiff Wales to attend the Saskatoon social event of the season, the marriage of my nephew Michael to Kristin.

It was quite the event - ceremony in Knox United Church in Saskatoon, followed by dinner and dance in Martinsville. Everyone was quite resplendent, (we Smith's can all clean up well)and the bride was radiant and gorgeous - you could never call my brother Stephen and I that!

For pictures of the wedding go Here

I had arranged to fly back to the UK with Des, stay in Britain a couple of days, and then continue on the India, to join Wendy in Goa ... but then it got a bit complicated. As the day to leave approached, my visa for India, which I had thought had been applied for in plenty of time, failed to show up. Fortuantly I have a British Passport, so was able to leave as planned with Des to the UK, but then had to wait for Sandy to courier the overdue visa to me in Britain when it arrived in Saskatoon.

Thanks to Sandy, it arrived in the UK a few days after I arrived, but not quite in time to catch the flight I had booked to India, so I had to book another flight.

I chose Sri Lankan Airlines via Colombo for the good connections that avoid having to overnight in Mumbai. The plane however developed a mechanical problem - the delay was in finding space at a ramp at Heathrow to fix it, (That airport is HUGE and Crazy) - the repair only took them an hour. So we were stuck on the plane for 4 hours on the ground at Heathrow, which meant I missed the connecting flight to Goa.

The airline took a while to figure things out, then put us on a bus to the city (26kms - just over 2hrs travel time!) and put us (abt 30 folks) up at a swanky 5 star hotel, the Continental. I won't get to enjoy it much though. My wake up call is at 1:30 am, for a 2:00 am bus back to the airport, for a 5:00 am flight to Goa ... Columbo looks a bit like any chaotic Indian City, until you go thru numerous military checkpoints (Machine gun toting soldiers everywhere) and end up in the swanky part by the ocean where the hotel is located.

I'm too tired to sleep, and since my room has WiFi internet decided to blog this update.

With any luck I'll make it to Wendy's tomorrow morning.

Back to 'toon town from the left coast

2007-10-08T07:22:00.000-07:00

Well I'm back in Saskatoon after another amazing Kayak trip with Steve. This one was for six days on the West coast of Vancouver island, out of Tofino. The guests were Matthew and Jo from Britain who were on their honeymoon. I enjoyed this trip even more that the first .. if that's possible. There were only the four of us, and I had the chance to experience kayaking in, or should I say on, the large swell that rolls in from Japan on the open Pacific. Awesome ... as they say.

Here's some photos for your viewing pleasure:

This weekend was my nephew Mikes wedding. Pictures and commentary to follow soon!

Port McNeill and Kayak Trip

2007-09-15T10:46:00.000-07:00

Wow!!

Just back from a five day Kayak trip in Johnstone Strait ... amazing!! Steve and Susannah were our guides, with Steller Sea Kayaking

Here's a slide show of the trip, starting with some pictures of Port McNeill and area.

Ferry to the Island

2007-09-07T15:46:00.000-07:00

Here's a short Video of the Ferry leaving Horsehoe Bay bound for Nanaimo on Vancouver Island.

Westward Bound ....

2007-09-07T15:15:00.000-07:00

On my way to the left coast .... to do some kayaking with the Orcas on Northern Vancouver island ...

But on the way it was first to the second annual Boreal Arts jam, at the Moosehead Hall near St Walburg ... a lovley affair (yes there's stuffed Mooseheads on the wall, on the stage, right next to the pictures of the Queen ...

The picture is of my good friend Nissa, at an outhouse we saw on the way to the hall ... pretty cool I think.

The cook is another friend, Dane Wright ... smoking buffalo as he cooks dinner for us ...

Then it's on to the mountains, and a spectacular rainbow I saw while camping between Golden and Revelstoke ...

Northern lights Bluegrass Festival

2007-08-24T19:20:00.000-07:00

Here's a clip, like last year, of the "Friends of Old Time Music" practicing at the Festival

Official Photos of Patrick and Nicole

2007-08-01T09:21:00.000-07:00

For those of you you havn't had the pleasure of meeting them, here are the current "official" photos, of my two offspring, Nicole and Patrick.

Canoe Trip in Alberta ...

2007-08-01T09:14:00.000-07:00

From Ness Creek I went to see my good friends at Birchlake for a night, before heading off to Alberta with friends Doug and Marianne from near livelong, on a five day canoe trip.

We had four glorious days on the N. Saskatchewan starting in Drayton Valley and ending up in Devon, just south and west of Edmonton .... the pictures tell a better story than I can ...

Back to 'toon town .... and on to Ness

2007-08-01T09:00:00.000-07:00

It was a little strange coming back to Saskatoon ... the wide clean streets, big sky ... and hardly any people! Fortuantly I took on a gig cooking for the set-up crew of the Ness Creek Festival
followed by the festival itself ... the biggest and best by many accounts.

Here's a little slide show of the festival.

More Pictures from Wales

2007-08-01T08:54:00.000-07:00

Andrew at land's End

Crickhowell, in verdant, soggy Wales

Snowdon - you could see if it stopped raining!

Mountain Railway up Snowdon

2007-08-01T08:35:00.000-07:00

Hello cyberfriends near and far .... it's been a while since I last posted, but my body is back in Saskatoon - although my heart may still be in India.

It's been quite an adventure ... but then what's new?

From monsoon Goa (below), and the lovley Wendy, it was up to Delhi, and, after an overnight at the Tibetan Settlement off to London where I met my friend Josslyn for a few days motoring around Southern England and then on to S. Wales. The only problem was that the monsoon seemed to have followed me .. frustrating my hopes of keeping up the trekking habit I've aquired ... and Josslyn's painting addiction ...

Eden Project

Tin Mine, Cornwall

Homeward Bound

2007-06-09T21:45:00.000-07:00

Well I'm back in Goa after a whirlwind trip to Varanasi and Bodh Gaya - places I'd like to go back to when it isn't quite so hot - it topped 45C in Varanasi one afternoon.

It's pre-monsoon weather here - showers, hot and humid - the kind of languid weather that encourages sloth and torpor .... nice to have the opportunity to use those words - let alone experience them! I'm enjoying Wendy and Usha's superb hospitality and getting organized for the trek home and the two weeks in Britain enroute. It will be diffferent returning to the West ... maddening though India is, I think I will miss the place!

I hope to be home in Saskatoon July 8th and will be looking for a small place for the months of August to October ...

I'd also very much like to do a canoe trip in the summer .... mid to late August ... perhaps even the Churchill for a week ... if you're interested do drop me a note and we can chat ...

In the meantime here's an eclectic set of images from the last three weeks.

Crossing the Glacier at the top of Cho La Pass

Pagodas in Durbar Square, Patan

Bathing Ghats, Varanasi

Bodhi Tree behind Mahabodhi Temple, Bodh Gaya - a relative of the tree the Buddha sat under until enlightenment came.
Cows frolicking in the surf, Goa

So, to finish my rant ...

2007-05-30T22:31:00.000-07:00

I started this trek at Luckla Airport, an amazing, uphill, short runway built into the side of a mountain, ending in a stone wall. Landing in the Dornier STOL plane was quite an experience - they also fly Twin Otters which seem to do it much more easily.

The airport was built by Hillary and his group to facilitate bringing in construction materials for the many schools and clinics he and his organizations have built in the region. He is on record as saying he regrets building it now, since it has flooded the region with people.

I trekked first to the Goyko Lakes ... which were absolutly wonderful, joining up with two other trekkers - Ricardo from Chile, and Gen from Britain. From there we did a day trip to "Frosbitten Fingers" about 5600metres for our first good views of Everest. An amazing place .. we felt like we were on top of the world!

We then went over the Cho La pass ... challenging to say the least - I wouldn't reccomend it without a guide or others who have done it. Fortuantly, Gen had a porter who knew it well, and we joined some Americans who were also going over. We then joined the Everest trail ( or the motorway as we called it) up to Gorek Shep (the last accomodation before the Everest Base Camp at the foot of the Khumbu Ice Fall) It's not that the trail is any easier, or less scenic, just a lot busier. The Everest trek attracts a lot more people. Some times we would meet herds of trekkers, often of one nationality, all decked out in fancy gear with guides and porters carrying their stuff. The coca-cola route ... or trekking in the bubble as we came to call it.

Which brings me to the second part of my rant.

It seems most westerners ... and increasingly others now (Japanese and Korean especially) have more money than time. They book their treks from home, believe all the stuff they are told about needing Guides and porters, and get all inclusive package deals, buying the latest oh so stylish gear in their own country.

The problem with this, aside from the fact that they pay five or six times what they need to, is that most of the money goes to the travel and trekking companies, and very little to the people of the region. If you do just a little research you can do it on your own, and have a much richer experience.

It's far better to get yourself to Nepal, buy a trekking guide book, maps and gear in Kathmandu, (gear is extremely cheap, and often locally made), get a bus or plane to the trail head and set off. If you want a porter to carry your stuff, you can hire locally and directly, pay a fair wage (under $10.00 a day) - which goes direct to your porter. You also get a chance to meet your porter before you set out, so can choose someone you can get along with well ... they are amazing men (and a few women)

For the main trekking routes ... Annapurna and Everest Base Camp a guide is really not necessary, but if u really want one, or plan on heading off the main route, again you can hire locally, and the money stays where it belongs. On these main routes there are plenty of tea houses, where you can get great trekking food and a bed for the night. They will all supply blankets if you need them, so you don't even need a sleeping bag .. although I'd reccomend a light one. I spent about $15.00 CDN a day on the Annapurna trek, and $20.00 CDN on the Goyko Everest Trek for three good meals and accomodation. Pretty fair when you think that everthing has to be brought in by mule, yak or porter for up to 10 days walking!

A nice guy called Milke gave me trekking poles after the Annapurna trek - I used them on the next trek and am a convert .... so much easier on the knees and gives your upper body a workout.

I was very lucky to go in a fairly low season .. now that some of the troubles in Nepal are settling down, expect a huge influx of trekkers.

Lastly I like to say a few words of appreciation to the people in the mountains - some of the friendliest, happiest most accomodation people I've ever met. Nest time I hope to try some trekking more off the beaten track. The scenery was magnificent, but it's the people I'll remember the most fondly.

My rant ...

2007-05-27T20:05:00.000-07:00

OK .. I've got to get this off my chest ...

As I was sitting above Everest Base Camp watching the streams of porters and yaks carrying all kinds of mountainering stuff (including filing cabinets, tables and chairs) in and out of the camp I couldn't help thinking what an expensive, self indulgent bizness this Everest climbing thing has become. A double amputee, a blind person and a second suimmitter who lost his hands and feet have all been up - Yet many still have to go .. and many die ... I heard of eight while I was in the area!

As I was thinking this six slim, fit looking young men - this year's Norwegian team come loping along the trail. They stop when some US trekkers clap and shake thier hands. Heroes! They were all wearing bright red lycra outfits ... so clean and bright - emblazoned with corporate logos whose names I won't dignify here - you know who u are. I thought they were race car drivers!!

Same, same, - but different I guess.

Unfortunatly much of the huge amounts of money spent on these expeditions - helicopters replacing porters, and all the hi tech equipment - comes from overseas.

Edmond Hillary has spent a lifetime improving the living conditions of the Nepali Sherpa ....

.....to be continued Gotta run folks ...

Preview of Everest Trek ...

2007-05-25T00:19:00.000-07:00

Well I'm back in Kathmandu, after an amazing trek ... here are a few pictures starting with the exciting landings at Luckla Airport ... more about that later.

I'm working myself up to do a proper rant about the Everest Climbing Circus but I'll spare you a few days until my comments are sufficiently ripened.

I'll be herer a few more days before heading to Varanasi and Bodh Gaya on Monday ...

2007-05-08T20:00:00.000-07:00

You get pretty hairy after threee weeks trekking .......
So it's off to Om Shanti Barber's in Pokhara for a shave .... (and more if u r inclined!)

Then it's Buddha Air to Kathmandu - you have your choice between Buddha, Cosmic and Yeti Air .....

Ahhhh "home" A familiar sight ... sign for Canadian Consulate in Kathmandu

Hanging out In Kathmandu

2007-05-07T21:05:00.000-07:00

I'm hanging out in Kathmandu .... a chaotic, polluted, fascinating city, recovering from a bit of bronchitis (the pollution doesn't help) and trying to arrange my flights back to Britain and Canada. With any luck I'll be back in 'toon town the middle of July.

A few days ago I was having dinner with a few folks, some of whom I'd met trekking. Ron, a German guy who speaks English without an accent started chatting to the Japanese guy next to him in Japanese - apparently he'd learned Japanese during a year long stay in Japan with a Japanese family. The Japanese guy had been spending the last year in India learning Hindi, and the Polish gal next to him, also living in India was doing her masters in Sanskrit. Jan, and American, who sorta speaks English and I looked on in amazement. What a multilingual world I live in!

If all goes well I'm hoping to fly to Luckla in the mountains and do the trek into Everest Base Camp on Wednesday.

I'm also giving some thought to a canoe trip on the Churchill this August ... seven to ten days, not too strenuous, good friends and food. Interested?>?? drop me an email .... more details to follow.

Annapurna Pictures

2007-05-01T22:14:00.000-07:00

On top of the world!

Jhargot - a village on the other side of the pass
View from Kalbneni looking into upper Mustang
A simple trekkers room in a tea house in Kalbeni
My room in Tatopani - a tropical paradise

Nepali kids in Sichuang
Chicken delivery service
The trail ahead
Stupa at Milrapa's cave
Yak on the way to Thorung la Pass

Coming Down to Earth ....

2007-05-01T03:34:00.000-07:00

I'm back from the mountains, after 22 days trekking - getting higher than I've ever been before. Totally amazing! I'm now in Pokhara - the marketplace for sure! And slowly coming down to earth

I'll post some more pictures soon - this one was taken from the top of the Thorung La Pass, 5416 meters, or 17, 700 ft.

And what did I learn? Lots - but it will take a while to intrgrate, however, I discovered the following, when visiting a mountain Gompa, that I'd like to share.

The Human Body, at peace with itself, is more precious than the rarest gem.

Cherish your body, it is yours this one time only.

The human form is won with difficulty. It is easy to lose.

All worldly things are brief, like lightning in the sky.

This life you must know as the tiny splash of a raindrop. A thing of beauty, that disappears, even as it comes into being.

Therefore set your goal.

Make use of every day to achieve it.

Attributed to Tsong-kha-pa, 15th century. Founder of the Gelug-pa order of Tibetan Buddhism

Annapurna here I come ...

2007-04-08T04:02:00.000-07:00

I'm in Kathmandu, preparing to go trekking ... a surprising amount to do, getting equipped, permits, guidebook, registering with the Canadian Consulate etc ...

I'm planning to do the Annapurna circuit

The trek itself takes 20 odd days ... but I may tarry a little on the way - so there may not be too much blogging for the next while.

Meanwhile, here's some pictures of Wendy's place ... my delightful rest and cool out stop in Goa.

The small pond has two flowering water lilies, one is open in the day time, one at night ... how cool is that!! The little froggy lived in my bathroom for a while ... lovley little fella ... totally oblivious to me.

...the perfect chapati ....

2007-04-04T01:55:00.000-07:00

Well - I'm still alive and well ... reunited with my credit card, and living extremly comfortably in Goa at my friend Wendy's. It truly is an amazing old Goan home, surrounded by forest, with a stunning garden with a shrine pond - in which one water lily blooms at night and the other in the day.

It's been a time to kick back, relax, read, plan my next adventure and learn from Usha (Wendy's houshold helper) how to make the prefect chapati.

So it seems like the next adventure is Nepal.

I leave for Kathdmandu via Delhi (overnight) on Friday afternoon. I'm hoping to do the Annapurna circuit - or at least part of it - and see how thngs go. I've been dreaming of this for years ... excited to finally have the opportunity to go now.

No pictures right now ... my camera is misbehaving .... stuff!!!

Madurai to Auroville ....

2007-03-20T22:52:00.000-07:00

Tamil Temple Madurai
Ambulance, Podicherry ... nice to know they have a freezer box!
Boats in Pondicherry, donated after the Tsunami disaster.
Matrimandir, the centrepiece of Auroville.

Interior of one of the schools in Auroville

AUROVILLE

2007-03-14T08:47:00.000-07:00

I spending a few days exploring Auroville - an amazing community north of Pondicherry. Their websites tell a whole lot more than I could ...

www.auroville.org
www.auroville.info
www.auroville.com

Beggers

2007-03-12T02:03:00.000-07:00

They're an unavoidable part of the Indian experience - well almost, I'll get to that ... and they come in all shapes, sizes and ages.

There's the lower caste woman with sickly, listless child in arms, fly's buzzing, as she gestures, hand to mouth for food, for her, for the baby

Or the blind women shouting out an unrecognizable plea, almost a wail, over and over again, as a child leads her down the aisle of the bus

Or the lepers, legless, armless, or otherwise deformed shuffling themsleves down the street on their hands and/or knees, on whatever

Young street kids, in rags, tugging at your arm

The thin legged kids sleeping on the street or in a doorway hit me hard.

Sometimes it's difficult to distinguish between the sadu's seeking alms and those that are just plain crazy.

Beggers seems to favor transportion centres, bus and train stations, entrances to temples, and of course outside any business or service that caters to westerners.

Quite often, as soon as you are recognized as being western, (or foreigner as you are called here) - the plea goes out ... help me! in some form or another.

I find it hardest in a new town.

When you have been in a place for a while, and you get to know the beggers, it becomes a lot easier. You can start seeing them as people doing what they do - many have their own corner or territory, are integral parts of the community, known to those that live there. Many are real personalities. In McLeod Ganj I was starting to know a few by name, and they, or I, started to become part of the community just like Mr Roger's "these are the people in my neighborhood" and they became a part of my daily perambulations.

Mind you, that was only after I'd give a few rupees here and there - to assuage my western guilt?

Alms are a part of the whole catastrophe in India. I'm sure many wouldn't survive if it were not for what trickles down, be they beggers or holy men. The stories you here may be true, of those that break childrens bones or otherwise deform themselves or other to increase their begging capital, or the mothers that drug their children to make them appear listless and easier to drag around.

Certainly many have become very skilled at what they do. Techniques handed down, and refined over many generations - even the most hardened foreigners don't stand a chance - avoiding is much easier.

If you have money you can insulate yourself pretty well. Duck into a store, take rickshaws or cabs, travel A/C class on the train - or do as the majority of tourists do - stay in that sanitized A/C bubble, choose the fenced resorts, and get waited on hand and foot. This is a style of tourism promoted very strongly, and effectively by India's tourist industry. How many beggers, or heaps of shit and garbage do you see in those sumptuous Incredible India advertisments?

As for me, I'm getting hungry - there' a promising rooftop restaurant above this internet joint.

Wish me well.

Pondicherry ....

2007-03-09T01:06:00.000-08:00

Well today didn't start well ... but got a lot better ...

I took the overnight "ultra deluxe" bus from Kodaikanal to Pondicherry - think beat up greyhound with no air con - that was supposed to arrive in Pondicherry at 5:30 am. I got seated next to a young Indian jesus freak with elbows that poked me all night so I was kinda pleased when the bus arrived early ... at 4:30 AM.

I took a rickshaw to the hotel I'd picked out from the guide - it turned out to be full - so off I went to an unknown place he suggested. Turned out a bit pricey, but really quite swanky - in an Indian sort of way - air con - that's quiet and works, and I even got my own bathtub! Such luxury!

Pondicherry is becoming quite agreeable. Mainly because of the food I think. I rented a motorbike (really cheap here .. $3.50 a day) and found a place to stay for a few days from an ad on the bullitin board of a French coffee/shop - my own room, fan, and use of common kitchen and lounge for $6.00 a day. This afternoon I went to the Jardin Botanique and had a ride on the toy train that goes thru the park.

Tonight I treated myself to a lovley dinner at Le Rendezvous ... boullabaise, a great salad, coq au vin, french bread, finished off with a creme caramel and a cappuchino .... this is India?

The police have red french policeman pillbox hats and most of the westerners I've seen are either Asramites from the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, Auroville is just down the road) or French tourists.

But it's been a long day and I'm off to bed ...

Ce's pas le fin du monde - or is it?

2007-03-06T08:40:00.000-08:00

Well hello dear blog browsers ....

It's been a while since I checked in - but I've been travelling ... perhaps a little too fast for my own liking.

After six days of sun, surf, tourists and great seafood (see picture) in Varkala, I headed up to Allepy on the train and went on an 8 hour ferry between Allepy and Kollam on Kerala's famouns backwaters. They didn't dissappoint - a peaceful cruise watching village life go by. The houseboats they have for hire - see photo - seem divine .. maybe next time!.

Then it was off to Kanyakumari (also called Cape Comorin, the southernmost part of India) to see the sunrise, and the moon set in the same sea horizon - I'd timed my arrival to coincide with the full mooon and, as a bonus, a total lunar eclipse - amazing. Many others had the same idea .. thousands of pilgrims actually.

On the way back to my hotel after watching sunrise, I had to pass through the very crowded entrance way to the temple - felt something against my leg, and when I emerged from the cowd discovered I'd been relieved of my wallet!

I reported it to the local police who acted politely, but were obviously quite disinterested ... fortuantly I had some travellers cheques in my bag, so could get some cash ... and headed here to Madurai the next day, since none of the ATM's in Kanyakumari accepted International bankcards. ( I had a spare in my room! - whew!) - not the end of the world ... although windswept Kanyakumari had a bit of that feel to it. The place where three seas meet - the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea.

It was a hot 6 hr bus ride here to Madurai. On the way we passed the largest wind power farm I have ever seen .... thousands and thousands of huge windmills .. a stunning sight!

Madurai is a temple city of about a million souls. As the heartland of Tamil Dravidian culture it has some amazing temples, although the town has a real tourist hustle edge to it. Far too many unemployed rickshaw drivers and tailors brothers for my liking - but great dosai's and southern Indian food seved on banana leaves. And the banana's ... so many different kinds - the fat red skinned ones are amazing!

Tomorrow I'm heading to the hills, to Kodaikanal ... should be cooler there .. a good place to unwind!

India continues to be an amazing teacher.

The pictures are a bit mixed up.

First is the crowd watching the sunrise at Kanyakumari

followed by:

Ferry to small islets off Cape Comorin ... a wild ride, well worth the 20 rupees!

Herding ducks, Kerala backwaters

Backwater houseboat

Trivandrum Station scene

Sunrise at Kanyakumari

Fish for dinner?

Washing water buffaloes, Varkala

Houseboat, Kerela

2007-02-24T00:31:00.000-08:00

Fish Market in Tellicherry

Proud owner of an 1936 Austin 7 in Tellicherry. My Mum and Dad had one like this in New Zealand, except this is a convertable model.

Varkala Beach, where I am now, sun sand and tourists!

Thalassery or Tellicherri ... take your pick

2007-02-18T03:28:00.000-08:00

From Mysore I headed west to Madekeri, a hill station in the Western Ghats. The reason I headed there was to break my journey back to the coast, and to visit the Golden Temple at Namdroling Monestary, nearby. See pictures below.

Today I got the bus to Thalassery (also called Tellicherry), on the coast, whose claim to fame, among other things, is as the birthplace of Hermann's Hesse's mother - god bless her.

Today, however, was a bit trying ... it started last night actually.

The hotel room was actually not bad ... and the TV had a gizillion channels. I watched the movie The Dream Team (pretty good - Michael Keaton) and the power stayed on for the WHOLE movie!!! Great. I'd just put the light out when there was a knock at the door - would I please pay my breakfast bill? Geez ... I paid the 30 rupees (.75cents) and went to sleep, only to be woken at 4:30 by slamming of doors, and loud voices - apparently, as I later found out, a group checked in at that time ...

I have to tell you that Indians can be some of the noisiest people you will ever meet.!

When I did get up, there was no hot water. Now normally this would not annoy me, but when I had checked in, the room they showed me had no shower, so I shelled out an extra $3.00 for one that had one .. with promises of 24 hr hot water.

So bleary-eyed I headed to the bus station and found the bus to Thalassery. As usual, the seats were spaced about 2'' closer than I needed have room for my knees ... but what the heck, it's only abt 100kms to the coast - how long can that take?

6 hours is the answer. 2 1/2 hours of tha to cover 26kms coming down off the hills, on one of the worst roads I have ever been on ... and that's a lot of
roads.! Not that the driver was being over cautious .. he was a speed demon! .. people were throwing up, those at the back of the bus literally rising off their seats! The last 20kms or so, on a fairly good road were insane ... full speed, horn blaring, passing everything ... I was scared to look.
Quite a ride for $1.50

I headed for the hotel I had researched on the net from travellers sites, The Paris Residency ... When I looked at the room it didn't sound at all like the description I'd read - it was pretty basic, but at least clean (by Indian Standards) so I took it - after all it was only 120 rupees ($4.00)

It was only after I'd checked in and went in search of some food I saw the hotel I was supposed to have found .. The Paris Presidency ... a swish looking place with an elevator no less! I bet they even give you toilet paper there!

Then it was on to the train station to make some onward reservations to Varkala ... only to find that the reservation office closes at 2:00 ... ahhh well .. go with the flow. Manyana.

On first inspection Thalassery looks like most Indian towns. Some of the words that come to mind are shabby, decrepid, squalid, faded, fetid or one of my mum's favorites, tatty ....

India is like that. It's only after you have been in a place for a while you see the other things .. the amazing architecture, the elegant women in their silk saris, the flowers growing in the garbage, the call from the mosques at sunset, temple bells ....

It seems whatwever conclusions I try to come to about India, as soon as I come to them, I get contradicted.

Anyways .. that's all for now .... off in search of dinner ....

Temple at Sera Jhe, a large Tibetan Monastry in Southern India

Mysore Pictures

2007-02-15T00:36:00.000-08:00

Sign near my hotel in Mysore .. good to know help is close at hand!

The Mysore Palace .... by night
..... and by day
Hotel Dasaprakash .. a very cool Art Deco hotel with a boat on the roof!!

2007-02-12T07:38:00.000-08:00

A bit of a strange day ...

Today was the day of a general strike in Karnataka to protest the decision of a tribunal regarding water sharing between Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. The streets were virtually deserted, everything was closed. Fortunately the restaurant in my Hotel (an extremely funky old place built around a large courtyard) was open - mainly I think because the large military and police presence were using it as a bit of a base and as a place to eat. When I went to breakfast, the place was filled with military people - halfway during breakfast a senior officer came in and everyone jumped to attention - as the only tourist in the place it felt kinda weird.

I went out a couple of times for a walk .. it was very quiet, except for one street where young marchers were walking .. all very peaceful and good humoured. At one point I saw a cop pull over an auto rickshaw to check that he wasn't carrying a paid passenger - the police apparently were supporting and enforcing the strike. By dusk it was all over, and the streets filled up again.

The other excitement today was my meeting with the hotels "astropalmist" I went and saw him yesterday, and he took a print of my hands on which he had squeegeed ink, took my 500 Rs ($12.00) for the "extended" prediction, with instructions to come back today at 12:00.

Our session lasted about half an hour - he was quite remarkably accurate in his assessment of my past ... ie marriage, divorce, two children, career, finances etc ... as for the future ... well I'll keep that to myself ... all I will say there are some surprises ahead. As I was leaving I was invited to give hime more information .. names of children, parents etc ... and more money .. for a puja, prayers and intercession on my behalf for the future ... I passed.

I've just come back from supper ... I decided to treat myself at the roof top cafe of a rather plush looking hotel that advertised "continental cuisine" I ordered a tossed salad and vegetable cannelloni. The salad consisted of big chunks of onions, carrots, tomatoes and cucumbers "tossed" with very hot chili powder .... too hot for me!!Thee cannelloni ... well ... it looked good, but consisted of strips of pasta filled with potato and some other green vegetable (fennel?) smothered in a tomato looking sauce - which was a bit sweet and spicy with a spice I didn't recognize. The garlic Nan was great ... Next time stick to Indian food.

I had hoped to head off tomorrow to Sere Jhe - a Tibetan exile community a couple of hours from here, but discovered I need permits to go, that may not be able to be arranged immediately ... further investigations required.

Weekend in Bangalore

2007-02-10T04:06:00.000-08:00

India's Tallest "Christmas Tree" in Bangalore Botanical Gardens
Karnataka ladies in traditional dress - worn daily ...

Sulatan's Palace - made all of teakwood

Blessing a new car at the temple

Traditional Transportation right downtown

Photos from Hampi

2007-02-08T01:31:00.000-08:00

Goa Glue

2007-02-02T07:12:00.000-08:00

It's call Goa Glue, a lady said to me the other night ...

I had been explaining how it was hard to leave Goa ... Life is very comfortable here, and I know if I don't leave now, I could get sucked into the vortex and never leave. I could see myself making a home here.

So today I leave my idyllic little beach and bamboo hut headed for Hampi.

Hampi's one of those places traveller's talk about - the ruins of and ancient Hindu city that is said to have rivalled Rome at one time.

It's a 10 1/2 hour overnight "Sleeper Bus" from Panjim ...

It's been good here ... the sound of the surf, amazing fruit salads at the Smiling Buddha, frolicing in the surf, watching the parasailers, zipping down to Wendy's on the scooter, visiting a spice farm, going to a concert ... and such great food ...

Last night Kate, an American woman, travelling with her Rajistanian boyfriend Guddu, organized an elegant dinner on the beach in front of our huts ... such style!! amd a lovley way to spend my last evening at Sweet water beach.

Monday Morning .....

2007-01-28T21:19:00.000-08:00

It's Monday morning here in Arambol ... had a great evening yesterday ... went and visited my friend Wendy in S. Anjuna ... and after a lovley dinner party with some of her friends headed off to a concert by Prem Joshua.

It was fun, but a bit buttoned down. The police have been really clamping down on the party and rave scene here, and the paper had an article in it yesterday about all the "nefarious" activities in Arambol - we are watching closely to see if we can see any!

Anyways, the concert was really well organized .. maybe 2000 people .. all arriving .. as we did on thier scooters. Tickets were 250 Rs ($6.00) but he volume was quite low, they turned bright lights on the audience between numbers, and shut the thing down at 10:00. I did get up and dance by the stage for a while .. and that was fun .. but it was a pretty tame evening all in all.

The day before I went over to Teracol Fort, north of here and across the river ... a delightful trip ...

Sweet water lake, behind the beach ....

The ferry across to the Fort at Teracol
Hindu Temple passed on the way to Teracol
St Antony's Church inside the walls of the fort (which is now a luxury hotel)

View of Kerim Beach, one of my favorites, from the Fort

A part of Wendy's Garden

Back in the Groove ....

2007-01-26T21:14:00.000-08:00

Well all went well on my trip to Panaji to replace my scooter ... and I seem to have gotten a good one this time. (crossing my fingers!) I had a delightful trip back, taking the smaller coastal road up the coast. I stopped for lunch in South Anjuna to visit a friend of Kevins who has lived here for 20 years, and was part of Namgyal Rinpoches merry band in the 60's ... just delightful - like meeting an old friend.

Yesterday was a beach day - a short trip north of here to visit the Fort at Teracol, which has been made into a luxury hotel. Exquisite. I had a small beer there ... for $4.00 then took off across the river on the ferry to Kerim Beach for a $2.00 lunch!

They finally have high speed internet in Arambol, so hopefully there will be a lot more picutres.

Here are a few to get started.

This lovley design, on the earth floor outside my room appeared one morning in Gantipule - the artist was pleased to pose for a photo.

The sunsent shot of a Hindu Temple was taken in Ratanagiri

A typical Goan Scene ... White Portugese Churches rising out of the jungle along broad rivers ending their journey to the sea from the Western Ghats

Sandcastle at Arambol .... the things folks do when they have time on thier hands!

Breakfast this morning at Eye of Buddha Restaurant ..... one of the things I love about Arambol!

The Motorcycle Diaries ...

2007-01-24T03:35:00.000-08:00

I arrived in Panjim yesterday, and spent the night at the delightful Panjim Inn.

I set out this morning to rent a motorcycle and head up to Arambol, (where I had the rustic, beach front bamboo hut, before I left.

Unfortuantly the place only had one rather sad looking bike available ... leaking front forks, no mirrors and as it turned out, dismal brakes ...

I was promised however that if I brought it back tomorrow they could exchange it for a happier one.

So, after attaching my bag on the back with the bungee cords I'd bought last night, I set off.

The Indian traffic was actually less daunting that I anticipated, and I made good progress. What had taken me an hour on the bus last time I did in 15 mins, whew! Then, about 30 kims up the road the bike quits.

Oh no ... been here before.

I pulled over, and after checking all the obvious things pushed about 20 metres to a little snack bar.

Now this is what I love about India. Anything you need is close by. Small business rules!

Within 5 minutes a mechanic had been summoned, who quickly determined the engine had seized on account of no engine oil in the sump. I got my cell phone out, but no coverage.

The snack bar had one of those STD phones that you see everywhere, so I plonked my rupee in and called the rental place and tried to explain my problem. Seeing I was having diffilcuty understanding the guy at the rental place, the cafe owner took the phone and spoke to the guy in Hindi to explain exactly what the problem was and where I was. He relayed the message to me that they would have someone there in an hour.

I had lunch, read the paper and sure enough a guy arrives. He gives me his bike (a gearless Honda Kinetic) and transfers the full tank of gas I'd bought into the bike he'd come on using a 2 litre water bottle. And off I go again.

All went well for the next 10 km until this bike suddenly stops working. I start fiddling and a guy stops on a bike and heads off to get a mechanic. I try wiggling the foot crank and lo and behold it works! I turn round to try and intercept the guy who went to get help but can't find him.

I feel a bit guilty that some helpful guy is going to come back to where I'd broken down and find me gone .. but what to do? So off I go ... The bike stops twice again on the way to Arambol, but the same fix works each time.

It's great to be back in Arambol. I headed to Sweet Water Beach where I was in December, get a warm welcome, and get the same hut as last time. This afternoon and evening I've been bumping into all sorts of locals who remember me from last time - I must have one of those faces that is hard to forget!

It's good to feel at home and known when you're halfway around the planet!

Anyways, tomorrow it's back to Panjim in the morning with any luck) in the hopes of getting a GOOD motorcycle.

Some pictures finally ...

2007-01-23T00:53:00.000-08:00

India Gate Mumbai

Camels on Beach at Ganpatipule
Time for a coconut ...

Back in India ...

2007-01-22T01:02:00.000-08:00

I've been back in India a week now ....

After a couple of days in Mumbai (Bombay) I needed to get out of the city so headed for the sleepy beach town of Ganpatipule via Ratnagiri. I caught the train to Ratnagiri .. or so I thought ... but made the mistake of getting on the train that was at the platform before the Ratganiri train. Before I knew it, we were off, and before I could get to the door we were hurtling along at a speed that made any thought of jumping off impossible! I got off at the next staion, 45 minutes later, and went to the station master and explained my plight ...

He suggested I get a local train to Thane, 20 mins away, and if I was really lucky, I might just make the train I was supposed to be on ...

Well ... I have never been on a train ... or anything for that matter that was as crowded as this one ... somehow I grabbed on, and was hanging out the door by one arm as the train took off. Fortuantly someone took my bags and grabbed me so I could hang on with both arms before we got going really fast - and clung on for dear life, hanging out of the door until we got to Thane, where I jumped off.

Miraculously my bags appeared and were thrown to me! After a few panicky moments trying to figure out which of the ten trains waiting was mine, I got on the right train. It turned out to be a most pleasant trip after that ... my coach mate was a military helicopter pilot ... we had a great time talking about everything under the sun, had a great meal at out seat and I got off at Ratganiri and caught a rickshaw to Ganpatipule, some 45 kms away.

Ganpatipule was great ... nice, cheap hotel, a very clean, quiet village, lovley beach - until the weekend .. when people started arriving for a major festival - seems Ganpatipule is a pilgramage place for Ganesh - and everyone for miles around started descending on the town. I escaped today to Ratganiri, where I can do some internet, get my phone recharged, and get transport south.

I'm heading tomorrow, if all goes well to Panaji, where I was when I left for Canada. I'm having some problems with my hip and leg, so will get it looked at there and take things from there ...
There's good internet in Panaji, so I'll get some pictures up for you to see ...

Happy New Year

2007-01-08T14:43:00.000-08:00

Solstice Fire at Birch Lake ,...
Jean Marie's Epiphany Party

Happy Solstice Everyone!

2006-12-22T11:48:00.000-08:00

Whew! ...... a long trip home.

Celebrated the Solstice last night with friends around a fire ... plenty of drumming, singing and dancing ... and a bit chilly.

Today it's off to Birch Lake with Patrick for more visiting and celebrating.

As the light returns, May all beings be well and happy!

Namaste!

Andrew

I'll be home for Christmas?

2006-12-13T20:26:00.000-08:00

About a ten days ago I was chatting online with Nicole about her plans to fly home for Christmas. I was feeling a bit homesick, and wanted to come home for a few personal reasons, so I casually checked Air Canada and they were advertizing Web fares at $928.00 plus taxes from Mumbai (Bombay, 500 miles north of here) to Saskatoon.

An amazing price - or so I thought.

For the next week I tried booking on Air Canada's website only to be frustrated at every turn. They kept advertising the cheap flights, but their system would only book the more expensive options. Then they said they could only mail tickets to my credit card address in Canada, no e-tickets.

I finally booked a more expensive flights (the cheaper ones were still shown as avalable!) - and was successful in having them change their policy on tickets - they told me I could now pick up the tickets at any travel agent in India .... but I couldn't.

Their office in Delhi insisted I travel to Delhi, (2000 miles away) within 24 hrs, to pick up and sign for the tickets, even though they had been paid for on the internet by credit card!

I finally booked the same flights with a local travel agent for over twice the price Air Canada was offering them at on the Web, and will pursue Air Canada for the difference.

The whole saga is kindly documented for me by Air Canada, Login here if you want to read the whole epic (I wouldn't if I were you!)

Anyways, a cautionary tale about Air Canada, the most unhelpful airline I've ever had dealings with.

Canada really deserves better from it's international carrier. It occurs to me that we the people used to own them - we would have been better if we had just given them to WestJet to run for us!

So God and Air Canada willing I'll be home the evening of the 20th Dec - returning Jan 13

If a Tsunami comes I'm toast ....

2006-12-10T05:18:00.000-08:00

Well here I am in Goa ...

I'd originally planned to head to Varanasi and Bodh Gaya but then the beach called .... a couple of cool nights in Rishikish did it. There's nothing like hangin out in a cold concrete cell to make you reflect on things ... ask any prisoner!

So .... I got the train to Delhi - very crowded, five hours, windows so dirty you could not see a thing out of them ... but ... free breakfast!! - a not bad omlette, two slices of white bread and the ubitquitous chai. I love the chai you get in the train stations ... 5 rupees .. served in a small unglazed pottery bowl/cup, that you throw onto the tracks when you are done! - saves on gravel I guess!

Then it was crosstown Delhi (pollutted - crowded - hot) to the rather pathetic domestic airport and a flight to Goa on Indigo ... one of the new private airlines that have recently sprung up in India. Often things turn out to be a lot less (or certainly different) than you expect in India, but for once this wasn't .. brand new Airbus aircraft ... 20 people on board, four immaculatly dressed stewrdesses. A 2.5 hr flight for $75.

I stayed the first two nights in Panjim, the State Capital, in a hotel that was one of the nicest I've ever stayed in. The Panjim Inn - located in a Portugese Heritage building, filled with antiques, air condititioned with a very welcoming staff - totally charming. Panjim was a nice surprise too .. Goa, an old Portugese Colony was once called the Rome of Asia) is full of old colonial buildngs, but is fairly clean, attractive with a prosperous feel to it.

I did make the mistake of going on a "sunset cruise" - the Indian version of a booze cruise ... about 100 Indian tourists and five or six westerners. The boat left about a half hour AFTER sunset ... nobody drank much ... thank goodness - but we were subjected to ear shattering Indian techno music and a demented DJ who alternativly cajoled children, couples, men and then women to the dance floor (in that order) - whilst telling the most patetic and sexist jokes imaginable. Thank goodness I didn't choose the 2 hour cruise.

I'm now at Sweet Lake Beach, just north of Arambol beach living in a very "basic" bamboo hut - literally 30 feet from the water at high tide. One extreme of luxury to the other! I have mixed feelings about Arambol .... The beach is lovley ... very long ... it's very touristy - mainly a young western crowd - predominantly dope smoking Isralis - I don't know what it is about Israli youth .. but as a group they seem very rude and cliquey. This means prices are high (for India) - lot's of western food, and all the computers are set to Hebrew .. you have to change them back to use them. For some reason the internet is painfully slow (only phone connections - sorry no pictures folks) and the streets behind the beach are filled with lot's of Israli younth guys on rented motorcycles that don't know how to ride them ... but are very intent on looking "cool"

On the other hand I've hooked up with Matt, Teresa and their daughter Ruby .. along with Sonia and Laura, my old neighbhors from the apartment in McLeod - nice to have friends to have supper with ..

I think I will begin a southward migration to less touristed spots Tues or Wednesday of next week.

Pilgrimage to the Ganges ...

2006-12-01T06:12:00.000-08:00

Well yesterday it was Haridwar, one of the oldest cities in India, and a major pilgrimage place for Hindus ... today it;s Rishikish .. further upstram, where the Beatles - remember them? hung out nad wrote many of the songs that appeared on the White Album ... the place still has quite a vibe ... the river is fast movng and astonishingly clear ... I may take a swim tomorrow if it warms up - unlike downstream where it's one of the most polluted rivers in the world. The night time picture is in Hardiwar, where pilgrims light candles and float them down the river in boats made of leaves.

The Ganges at Rishikish

2006-12-01T05:34:00.000-08:00

Views of the Sikh Golden Temple in Amritsar

Cooking a BIG pot of Chick Pea curry at the Golden Temple

Volunteers making Chapatis at the Golden Temple
Note the Guy saying prayers as they are made.

Cooking the Chapatis ... they had four of these grills going - the next pic is the volunteers handing out trays, bowls and spoons as you enter the dining hall

Let me tell you about my day ....

2006-11-28T06:57:00.000-08:00

Well it started early ... left the apt at 4:00 am ... trudged up the steps (394 of them) for the last time and went to the taxi stand and got a taxi down to the bus station in Dharamsala ... the taxi driver had no change - as usual .. change is always a problem in India ... which was solved after we both ran around the bus station asking bleary eyed travellers if they could make change ...

The bus was only 15 mins late ... got into Amritsar 2 chai stops and 5 hours later - the bus didn't go all the way into town so I got a tuk tuk (3 wheeled, fume belching rickshaw) to the train station since the hotel I'd scoped out in the guide was withing walking distance of the station - not a good idea to have a tuk tuk take u to a new hotel .. they will run in and claim commission from the hotel ... jacking up the price!

My first impressions of Amritsar were not good ... very polluted .. congested .. dirty .. lot's of beggers and touts ... a frenetic mess. The hotel was adequate .... so after a quick shower I headed off to see the Golden temple, the Mecca for Sikhs

I was not dissappointed ... it's an amazing sight. Click here for photo

There's a free bus from the station to the temple .. when you get there you check your shoes, wash your feet and walk in ... You have to have your head covered if you're not wearing a turban ... but they provide nice scarves for you to use. I found the place as moving as it was beautiful - a combination of hospitality and mass reverence Super clean, free meals for everyone who wants .. they can feed 10,000 and provide free accomodation for three nights if you want to sty in their hostel. No one asks you for money, and the place is run by volunteers. And all those turbans! very colorful. There's continuous singing coming from inside the temple which, as the name suggests is covered in gold ...

I walked back to the hotel and got back tired, and frazzeled ... and headed over to the train station to see if I could change my ticket to leave a little earlier. The ques were too daunting however, and I decided to stick with what I have. I went back to the hotel planning a shower but found out that you only get hot water once a day ... what time did i want it tomorrow?

After a short nap I went in search of a restaurant from my guide ... given the grubby nature of what I'd seen o far of Amritsar I didn't expect much .... but found myself in a much more upscale part of town and it turned out to be fabulous!

Beggers are one of the hardest things to get used to here. Until this trip I'd been generally reluctant to give to beggers much .. all the guide books talk about giving to organizations that serve the poor as a better strategy ... it reminded me a bit of the campaign the Partnership in saskatoon had to discourage panhandlers ... except that here it's much more heartbreakers. I've been surprised to see quite a lot of lepers ... people withhorrible disfigurements of feet and hands .. and it some cases missing limbs entirely. I thought that leprosy was a thing of the past .. but apparently, while it can be controlled or arrested if caught early ... many in India simple don't have access to treatment. The other difficult sight are mothers, often Dalits (untouchable caste) with babies .. or child beggers who persistently tug at your clothing to get your attention.
I now give whenever I have coins in my pocket ... John, a most interesting chap who lived in my apt building said somethng that stuck with me ..... somethng abt giving without trying to decide who you should give to .. as he put it .. let God decide. Certainly I wouldn't want to trade places with any of the beggers I meet

Well my prepaid hour is up on this thing ... excuse the rant ... stay tuned ...

2006-11-26T21:10:00.000-08:00

Well it's my last day in McLeod - hard to believe I've been here two months.
Tomorrow it's off to Amiritsar, home of the Sikh Golden Temple, then on to Rishikish, Varanasi and Bodha Gaya by Dec 12th. Here are a few last photos' around McLeod Ganj

Took a hike yesterday to the pretty village of Naddi near McLeod Ganj ....

Terraced fields against the magnificant backdrop of the mountains

Photo of Demonstration to protest visit of Chines Premier to India from last week

One last sunset photo from the deck of the apartment

Back to Little Lhasa

2006-11-20T08:50:00.000-08:00

Well I'm home again to Little Lhasa as McLeod Ganj is often called. It's good to be home, but I have the feeling that if i don't leave soon I never will ... so will probably move on in a week or so.

On the way home I stayed in Chamba one more night - and was tracked down by the Himachal Fire Dept. I was out for a stroll thinking of eating at some food stalls I had seen when I realized the route I was taking would leave me right past the fire station. I walked by, smiled, but thought no one saw/recognized me .. until about five minutes later when a guy ran up to me and told me the chief wanted to see me ... something about dinner and restaurant ... I went back and said hello .. but refused his kind offer

I then found a quiet little restaurant .. or so I thought, to eat .... at the other end of the restaurant some young boys 12 years old or so were celebrating a birthday when they saw me I was mobbed ... all wanted to shake my hand .. questions flew .. where was I from? what was my name? how much money did I make? where was my wife? - the usual sort of Indian questions! Fortuantly their parents dragged them off me and they left ... leaving me a big piece of Birthday cake ... quite sweet really.

When I went up into the town this morning there was a largish sit down demonstration by Tibetans protesting the visit of Chinese President Hu Jintao to India.

Later there was a candlelight march thru the streets .... all very peaceful.

Well that's all for tonight ... night!

2006-11-16T06:37:00.000-08:00

I'm nicely cossetted (love that word) in the Aroma Palace Hotel in Chamba ... one the nicest places yet! Clean, a great view, hot water, tv, towel even toilet paper!!!

I came to Chamba from Dalhousie this morning on a "bus" (if I can call it that) trip that Lonely Planet describes, quite accuratly, as hair-raising. ... a wild mountain road that passes thru a black bear sanctuary and an Indian Swiss style meadow and resort ... bizarre ... The valley is steep, the mountains high and the road very narrow.

Dalhousie was almost deserted ... very much the "off season" and bitterly cold at over 7000ft. It's kept going by the army and a couple of huge "public schools" - a cross between American Military Acadamies and British Public Schools ... boarding schools where priveleged Indians send thier darlings to be educated and moulded. Many of the buildings and hotels reek of Raj Era India Glory ... or ... again to quote Lonely Planet others just reek.

Chamba is relaxed provincial centre in the Valley ... very much a working town .. I havn't seen any other Westerners here yet.

As I was walking around checking the place out this afternoon I saw a bunch of Fireman sitting outside the Himachal Fire Brigade Headquarters beside an ancient fire truck .... I asked if I could take a picture and they were delighted and insisted on posing in front .... before i knew it I was in the Fire Chief's imposing but ancient office having tea with him .. he seated behind his enourmous desk and his men on chairs around the edge of the office - he asked me questions about Canada and I told him my brother is a volunteer fireman - he was delighted .. and kept translating everything I said to the men in Hindi ... He then asked in a quieter tone if I liked whiskey ... at which point I told him I'd been on the wagon for a few years ... discretion seemed to dictate that this was the wisest decision .. and I left .. promising to send him the picture - these sort of things seem to happen a lot here.

Tomorrow it's off to Bharmaur ... right behind the mountains from McLeod Ganj ... and way off the beaten track .. with any luck I'll be back to Chamba in a couple of days ...

Back to Samsara

2006-11-14T06:51:00.000-08:00

Well it's been 3 or 4 days since I walked down off the hill from Tushita back to my apartment down here in McLeod Ganj - and what a social whirl it's been.

The retreat was truly excellent .... the first eight days an introduction to Tibetan Buddhism - very well presented ... followed by 2 days of meditation ... three pretty good meals a day ... yoga "talking" in the afternoon and evenings ... and chocolate for sale in the Chai Shop. A meditation retreat with chocolate! ... what a concept! The presentor was a Ozzie monk ... Lama Lobsang Namgyel, warm, compassionate and hilarious!

The course was just what I needed .. a pretty comprehensive introduction to Tibetan Buddhism from a Gulugpa Mahayana perspective. Helped my understand ... and appreciate much of what Namgyal Rinpoche at the Dharma Centre was about. I may attend some more teachings at a related centre in BodhGaya - if I ever get there!

Life in McLeod seems to have been especially sweet the last few days ... I'm getting to know quite a few of the regulars around town, along with the rather interesting - some might say quirky - people in my apartment block. That combined with the 46 or so folks I was with at the Tushita retreat and it's impossible to walk anywhere without meeting someone you know ... and heading off for the subsequent chai, restaurant or coffee house gathering. Fun. I think I could quite enjoy living here for quite a while ... it's one of those villages that is a planetary crossroads. however, a southward move may come as soon as temperatures drop ... an Indian Snowbird!

Tomorrow however, I'm heading off on a adventure up the Chamba Valley - with the goal of seeing how far I get. It's the valley one over, and deeper into the Himalaya than the Kangra Valley which Dharmasala and McLeod Ganj are in. It's actually only a few miles away directly over the mountains from here .. across the Indahaur pass I tried unsucsessfuly to cross when I went trekking - but to get there is going to be a very long bus ride ... the long way around ....

I'm expecting to be gone five or six days .. I'm not sure if I'll find internet or not .. watch the space for the next installment!

Get thee to a Monastry!

2006-11-01T07:58:00.000-08:00

Heading home to the apartment after a quiet evening .... tomorrow I head up to Tushita Meditation Centre for a 10 day retreat - I'm looking forward to it. The last few days have been quite social, as I'm getting to know people and what's on. I joined a group last night for a Halloween supper at a Korean restaurant ... followed by desert and singing at Capre Diem. It will be good to have a break!

Tonight I went for my predinner Chai at Sunrise, then walked over to Bhagsu in the moonlight to the German Bakery and Restaurant, which, for some reason has great Indian Food - splurged and stuffed myself on a Kashmiri Vegetable Biryanai and a Malai Kofta, along with Garlic Nan and Chai ... all for the staggering sum of $3.00!

Back in 10 days or so .......

Mountain Railway

2006-10-30T00:33:00.000-08:00

I took a narrow gauge Mountain Railway from Jogindernagar to Kangra ... less than 100 kms - over 4 hrs!! but amazing views and a slice of local life!

The Seats were a bit hard .... Our driver is happy to pose for a picture!

Jogindernagar Station ...

Trip to Manali and Rotang Pass

2006-10-29T23:52:00.000-08:00

Sonam Guesthouse in Visisht - a very funky but good place to stay!

On the way up to Rotang Pass, there are many stores renting out warm clothes to Indian Tourists on their way up to experience snow for the first time

Half way up is a rest stop with lots of restaurnats and tea shops ...

The road is spectacular ....

and narrow ....

A bit scary in places ...

But at the top (4,300 metres) it's a winter playground ... Yak rides, snowmobile rides, skiing "lessons"

Manikaran Hotsprings

2006-10-29T23:28:00.000-08:00

The bus to Manikaran Hotsprings .... my first ride on the roof! Way more comfortable! Sikh Temple at Manikaran Hot Springs ... contains public baths and a hostel - 3 nights free accomodation and meals for pilgrims!
The water emerges boiling! Food is put in bags (rice etc.) and thrown in to cook!
These two Sikh gentleman insisted on me taking their picture!

Halfway to Heaven ..

2006-10-19T09:53:00.000-07:00

Well back safe and sound from my first trek in the Himalaya ... wow ...

I left Tuesday morning .. expecting to join a group .. but as is so often the case in India .. things were not as expected, and I was the only one going .. with not one .. but two guides .. Mr Deep ... an ex-army guy about 45 and his young sidekick Daschen .. great guys as it turned out, although communication was limited since they spoke only Hindi and Bahari.

We headed out from McLeod Ganj to the first stop, Gallu temple, picked up a sleeping bag and tent for me and continued up the mountain to Triund, which is on a ridge about 1000 metres above McLeod Ganj. By the time we got there it was quite foggy in cloud, then, miraculously, it cleared and I was blown away by the sight of the Himalaya Massif, snow covered, rising behind us. A picture seemed in order, but when switched the camera on nothing happened - I'd left the battery, which I had diligently left in it's charger in my apartment!

Ahh well ...

I stole the pics from the net ... The first one is of Triund, the second of Indahara Pass taken from Snowline.

We continued on to Snowline another 4 km (3hrs trek) where we made camp. There were two young hash smoking Czech guys camped there along with a stone and tarp shelter selling tea, food and just abt anything else you could imagine! Mr Deep started to make dinner on an ancient gas stove that, he and Daschen had carried in one of the two huge canvas bags they had carried up ... I was even more amazed when a bag of flour, a rolling pin, board and cast iron grill emerged from the bag and young Daschen was instructed to start making chapati's while Mr Deep made chai, then cooked soup, rice, dal and vegetables. I was fed (delicious - I was starving) while they watched, me making appreciative sounds, refusing to eat until I had finished - very weird feeling.

Mr Deep and Daschen slept in the shelter with the stores keeper, and I got the tent - a small one person Indian version of a Canadian Tire 29.95 special.

The stars were amazing - the milky way was the brightest I think I've seen it!

It was a bit of a chilly night, my altimeter watch said -5 and 3150 metres (10, 320 ft), and I was up at first light to drink a most welcme cup of hot chai followed by a porridge breakfast.

Mr Deep and I headed out about 7:30 for the pass. By 10:30 we had made it to 3800 metres (12460ft). The view was magnificent, but I was bushed. Every few steps I had to stop to catch my breath ... and clounds were starting to gather, so we headed down making it back to Snowline just after noon, in the middle of a hailstorm. Good thing we got off the mountain when we did!

We decided to break camp and head down to Triund where we could spend a warmer night, arriving there about 4:00 pm The weather lifted by evening, as it often seems to here, and I had a good night and unevenful trip down to McLeod and a welcome shower.

It seems my timing was good, we had a terrific thunderstorm last night and today it's pouring. (good time to catch up on internet!)

Last night was fun however - Roger and Sue, an English couple who are in my building, have their son, and two of his friends visiting. They are all musicians, and put on a great show at Capre Diem - a place that has become a bit of a travellers hangout. Halfway through the evening we lost power (happens a lot here) and out came the candles adding to the ambience of the evening.

Tonight I'm heading over to Manali for a few days - only aboput 40 miles as the crow flies, but an overnight bus trip from here. Sounds like an interesting spot.

Trip to Hotsprings ...

2006-10-14T23:02:00.000-07:00

On Sunday I went to some hotsprings for the day with a german guy called Simon and a guide, Vickram.

First of course we had to eat ... amazing parethra .. potatoe filled nan brad cooked in a portable tandoori, with raita and chickpeas .. delicious .. all you can eat for 14 rupees ... (40 cents) ....

First there was a trek for about 20 minutes through the jungle ... and a river to cross ...

then we came to the springs, situated in a small Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva ... after our guide had made the appropriate offerings at the shrine we bathed in the pool

...and had a little picnic prepared by Vickram under the shade of the Bodhi tree ..

A great day!!

Some Local pictures Finally

2006-10-13T05:08:00.000-07:00

Street Scene - Wildly decorated trucks ...

Long walk up to the waterfall .....

But always a tea-shop nearby ...

View from apartment Balcony

Monkeys everywhere!

2006-10-10T08:28:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was a bit grey - one of those slow days ... most businesses are closed here Monday and by 4:00 was pouring.

Undeterred, I decided to head out about 5:00 ... bought an umbrella for 60 rupees ($1.50) and went in search of the heart of Monday night. (Flicr photo) I stopped for Chai first (when in doubt drink Chai!) and headed for a hole in the wall place called the Sunrise cafe - which led to great conversations with some Korean girls, two Indian guys and a french man, including advice to go to Khana Nirvana Community Cafe on Temple Road for an open stage later on.

Then it was off to an Indian Restaurant that I've become fond of that serves a great veggie Thali - where I ended up in conversation with four monks. One of them, Thupten who had escaped to India from Tibet three years ago, suggested we go together to the Norbulinka Insitute tomorrow ... so I agreed to meet him in the square at 10:00 the next day ...

Full of Indian food i headed off to Khana Nirvana .. got the last seat in the place, right at the front, and started chatting wioth Sean and his Dad, Duke, seated next to me ... from Portage la Prairie! The evening was fantastic .. Traditional Tibetan music, Indian music, blues, Isreali songs ... and a more international and enjoyable evening would be hard to imagine!

So today it was off to the Norbulinka Instituteabout an hour away from McLeod Ganj on two busses. The Institute was set up by the Dalai Lama to help preserve Tibets artistic and cultural heritage. An amazing place - all kinds of workshops doing everything from Thanka paintings, sculpture, wood carving to weaving and doll making. After that it was off on another short bus ride to Gyuto Tantric University and it's large temple, the home of the Karmapa
The temple was closed, but Thupten found a yooung monk with the keys who let us in.

Then it was back to Dharmasala for a spot of lunch, a little shopping for domestic items for the apartment and home for a nap!

I finally got some pictures off my camera ... so I'll put them up tomorrow.

Settling in ...

2006-10-05T22:56:00.000-07:00

I moved into my new apartment yesterday ... decided to splurge and took one of the sunny suites with a nice view of the mountains - took it for a month at 250 rupees a day ... ($6.25 CDN) including power and cooking gas. There's an older American Lady above me who is going with me to shop tomorrow for a few domestic things - she's been coming here for 17 years so can give me the low down. There's pics of the place here http://easthomeinfo.com/

I went to the movies yesterday ... saw the Constant Gardener. There quite a few movie places here ... rooms with up to 25 seats, that show DVD's (probably pirated!) projected onto a screen for about a $1.00 a shot.

I've made an appointment for Sunday for a Tibetan Massage and Health/Yoga assessment .. should be interesting!

My cell phone is now hooked up with an Indian # It's 9816838248 I think the country code for India is 91 India is a bit like Newfoundland, 30 mins out of step with the rest of us. I think the time difference is 12 1/2 hrs

So as you can see .. I'm settling in. The weather is great so far ... warm days up to 20/25 and cooler nights 15 or so. I've been warned that it get's pretty cold by December, so we will see how things go. Sure is a relief after sweatiung it out in Delhi.

So that's all for now, Heading up the hill now to set up an appointment with one of the Teachers at Tushita Meditation Centre and then maybe some lunch.

Whew!! Ahhhhhhhh! Dharamsala ....

2006-10-02T04:04:00.000-07:00

A day late, I finally arrived, actually in MacLeod Ganj, the Tibetan town just above Dharamsala - but not without incident.

The "super-deluxe" "Volvo" A/c bus turned out to have quite a few tough miles on it.
But off we went at 8:30 ... only half an hour late. The latest Bollywood Blockbuster Movie blared out of the speakers, the air conditioner blasted away. The bus was only a third full - but half of the passengers wanted it that way, the other half wanted it off and there only seemed to be two settings. So off and on it went ... all night.

About 2:00 am we started backing out of a toll booth on the "Motorway" why ... I don't know. By the time I saw us go around the same roundabout three times I realized we were lost ... we went all over ... backing out of dead ends twice, until we found ourselves back on the main route. I finally fell asleep (the seats wern't too bad actually) only to be woken at 3:45 by a loud bang under my seat. A tire had blown. The inner of the drivers side dual wheel at the back.

He and the conductor went out and started trying to jack the vehicle up ... with a tiny hydraulic jack - except they didn't have a flashlight. I did, and held the flashlight for the hour or so it took to change the tire - an amazing operation really - it had obviously happened before.

As dawn came up, we arrived int the foothills of the Himalaya ... stunning. At times we had to back up for other vehicles to pass, the sheer drops a bit unerving .. and finally made it to Dharmasala. The taxi driver had never heard of the "Tara Guesthouse" I was looking for ... I was told by a nice Tibetan guy at the Tara cafe I was taken to that it has been converted to a nunnery ... but he helped my find another - "The Mountain View" - just perfect - fairly central, friendly and a perfect base until I can find my way around and rnet a room long term.

The setting of MacLeod Ganj is just spectacular. It's a bit touristed with backpackers, but has everything one might need. Here's a couple of pics from the net until I figure how to get my own ones up.

Sweating it out in Delhi

2006-09-30T02:49:00.000-07:00

I'm finally starting to feel human again ... I arrived in Delhi Thursday morning ... the flight itself was great ... one of the best I've been on with Jet Airways ... never heard of them before, but the plane was new, only 2/3rds full, and the service and entertainment great.

All this was a bit of a blessing.

The morning I left Cardiff my back went for some inexplicable reason, I hobbled onto the train in Cardiff to Reading, which had a problem and was an hour late. The connecting airport bus ran into traffic problems on the M4 - apparently some guy went for 11kms on the motorway the wrong way and caused a major pile-up (it was on the BBC news in Delhi!) and I JUST made the plane ... whew!! However after a couple of glasses of wine and a snooze on the plane things began to look up.

Everyone who has been to India has told me that nothing can prepare you for the experience. I now believe them. I'm staying in the old part of Delhi - the hotel is not bad, however the heat, chaos, noise is outside the door is overwhelming.
I've heard it said that India is a rich country full of poor people ... 40% of the worlds poor live here ... and they are everywhere.

While one part of Delhi has wide streets and all the modern corporate amenities, the larger part is incredibly crowded. And wandering through all the filth are the implacable sacred cows. Ox carts compete with Mercedes for their share of the crowded street .. and of course .. everyone wants to sell you something. The beggers ... lame, disabled, ragged can be quite heartbreaking - yet the city also has a dynamism - and many people are incredibly friendly, genuinely helpful and most speak English well.

I came down with the renowned Delhi belly in about 24 hrs ... despite taking all the normal precautions. Some travel book advice suggests you should let things take their course to develop an immunity but I chose to treat it. I'm feeling much better today.

I was supposed to be leaving this evening for Dharmasala in the mountains but I've was informed an hour or so ago that the "luxury" a/c bus I was booked on has broken down. Faced with the choice of an non a/c (the trip is 12hrs) I've rebooked for tomorrow and will take it easy till then. So it's off to find something to eat .. and maybe a Bollywood movie tonight.

That's all for now ....

More Pictures - Bolsover Castle

2006-09-26T03:01:00.000-07:00

Here are a few more of Bolsover Castle which we stopped in to see on the way back to Cardiff.

Bolsover Castle

Sep 19, 2006 - 22 Photos

India Bound ......

2006-09-26T02:44:00.000-07:00

It's off to India tomorrow!

style="text-align:center; width:194px; fI'm here in Cardiff, staying at my cousin Des's place with Nicole who starts school tomorrow. Nicole, Luke (her boyfriend) and I have just returned from a wonderful trip through Wales to the North of England. We were all just blown away on how beautiful the British countryside is .. particularly Northern Wales.

Driving on the other side of the road proved to be less challenging than I had anticipated ... however the volume of traffic, speed, agressivness and comp[lex network of roads was a bit overwhelming ... however .. all went well and the car was returned today unscratched!

Click on the first picture to see the rest ... the first ones are of Toronto ..

Toronto to Cardiff

Sep 11, 2006 - 96 Photos

Alive and well in "toon town ....

2006-08-10T12:22:00.000-07:00

It's August already and I'm still in 'toon town getting ready for my next adventure! I've been a lazy little blogger recently but have good intentions to resume somewhat regular posts.

I've been living in a great apartment - the top two stories of a house, just off Broadway ... in the middle of the 'hood. Many weekends have been spent camping with my old BMW bike ... including the Ness Creek Festival

Here's a video of some my friends at Ness Creek with Old Time Music practicing. I'll try posting it here .. hope it works!

The other news is that I've purchased a quarter of land (160 acres) an hour north of Saskatoon in the Thickwood Hills. It's a lovley property, with lot's of wildlife, water, mature forest etc.
There's nothing on it .. buildings etc ... but it has all kinds of potential.

My hope is that it will become a place of sanctuary and retreat for all beings.

The plan right now is to leave Saskatoon the beginning of September and do some visiting in Winnipeg and Toronto before heading to Cardiff to see Nicole, my daughter, who will be starting her Masters there, and then continue on to India until at least Christmas time.

Well that's all for now .. hopefully a new post and more pictures soon!

Andrew

Meanwhile .. back in 'toon town!

2006-05-26T15:07:00.000-07:00

Back in Saskatoon .. details to follow! Stay calm, be brave, watch for the signs .....

Lost in Paradise ....

2006-04-25T19:54:00.000-07:00

I'm on Railey Beach .... superb ....

It was a bit of a trek leaving Vietnam .... an overnight in a hotel in Singapore .... then up to Krabi for a couple of days and now .... finally .... Railay.

I'll be here till the 1st May .... spend a day in Krabi, and then fly to Bangkok on the 3rd, and then home on the 5th.

But in the meantime ahhhhh Railay.

I'm too lazy to get my pictures tranferred and put up ... be here's a link to a webshots album taken very recently .. will give you a feel for the place ...

http://community.webshots.com/album/280681049thwmTf

I've rented a little Cabana up on the hillside ... thatched... set in a jungle paradise, towering cliffs at the side of me ... shaded by banana trees and the walkway lined with pineapples ... birds singing .... monkeys hanging out .... everything you need ....

I feel it's time to cool out for a while and relax before heading home ... while it's been a pretty comfortable and relaxed trip so far ... I find I'm always dealing with logistics and staying alert when I'm on the move ... it's nice to just settle into a place for a little while.

Time for a massage I think ....

Bye for now

Mui Ne Pics ...

2006-04-18T19:58:00.000-07:00

Toute sa change

2006-04-18T07:56:00.000-07:00

Everything changes .... after writing the last post I went to my room ... cute as heck ... clean, cool, quiet ... had a shower ... and headed out for dinner.

Chose a little place around the corner .... pleasant vietnamese waitress .. started with a Ricard and water ... Vietnamese pancake ... delishe ... thin pancake stuffed with bean sprouts, peanut chunks, shrimps, tender bbq pork strips, fresh lettuce, parsley and mint ... then a nice glass of Dalat wine along with a fresh straw mushroom, onion and snow pea dish ... with rice ... followed by creme caramel (superb!) and a local banana liquer with Vietnamese coffee ...

The kitchen where all this was prepared was across the alley .. open ... and amazing ... 4 people, two woks .. a couple of burners, a rice cooker and a charcoal grill ...

The pleasant conversation with the two Canadian teachers teaching in Bangkiok and taking two weeks holiday in Vietnam was a bonus ...

And the bill ... $7.00 .... drinks and all! Best $7.00 meal I've ever had ...

So it's off to bed and the dentist tomorrow ...

Night!

Allow me a rant ....

2006-04-18T03:14:00.000-07:00

Asia can be VERY frustrating at times .... it does't happen often, but it just happened again ... so I thought the best thing to do was to slip out of the street chaos and into an internet cafe and type it out of my system! It may have somethng to do witht he fact that I have to get a wisdom tooth pulled tomorrow ... but I doubt it ...

There are so many people here. Many more people than there is work ... particularly for young men it seems. (Many of the women, who seem to do most of the work, often are quite busy .. cooking, cleaning looking after the kids ....) Underemployment is one of the biggest challenges Asia faces. Living standards are rising .... there's enough food .... but not enough for people to do .. and expectations that always exceed income. There are far more services .. and products that there is people with money to buy them. As a westerner you are the prime target ... a walking ATM machine ...

It's most critical for young men I think ... they often lurk about trying to do anything to get your attention to sell you something or provide a service. You can buy ANYTHING ... transportation, ciggarettes, sunglasses, postcards, their sister ..... Everywhere you are being watched. Let your eyes glance at something and they pounce.

The motorcycle taxi drivers and the cyclo drivers here in Saigon are the worst. The will do anything to attract your attention ... like waving ... shouting ... putting their hand up as if to stop you ... standing in front of you and asking where you are going ... or putting thier arms around and asking how you are ... in the more agressive they will grab your arm and pull you toward their bike or cyclo or whatever they are selling

... and it doesn't end with no ... they keep at it ... getting mad is the worst thing you can do ... but some days it challenges my equanimity ... today anyways ...

It's got so I don't wear my leather sneakers when I go out ... so I don't get hassled so much by the shoe shine guys ...

Damn!! It happened again

.... I can't even type this rant without getting interupted ... this time by the gal trying to wheel her motorcycle past me ... and all the other customers IN this internet cafe ...

Motorcycles are everywhere!!! Millions of them ... first it was the Honda Dream I'm told ... strong relaible, and affordable. Then they made the "Wave" and then everyone else started making them ... a Chinese knockoff goes for $600 new .. so everyone has got one .. they are everywhere ... you cant use any of the sidewalks ... they are motorcycle parking lots ... they fill hotel lobbies ... access to restaurants ... you can't move for bikes ...

Crossing the road is a trip .... the way u do it is to just walk out into the stream of bikes ... and they go around you ... you hope. Most unerving ... but the only way to do it ..

Oh the noise!!!! Everyone beeps their horn ... it's like they are bats navigating by sound. The busses and trucks ... which you get out of the way of ... pronto ... have air horns and can scare the bejesus out of you!!

So anyways ... I can't wait to get out of Saigon ... don't get me wrong .. it's an amazing vibrant city ... but a bit of shock after my nine idyllic days in my beach bungalow at Mui Ne, listening to the surf.

I head off to Krabi Thailand via Singapore on the 22nd ..... a few more days of beach I hope .. then it's up to Bangkok and home to Canada on May 5. At this point I'm having problems getting flights from Vancouver to S'toon but I'll figure something out ...

I've got some pictures of Mui Ne I'll try and put up ... and a couple I love of a Vienamese version of the car seat ... who says safety isn't important!!!

Darn again!!! This computer is set to Korean ... it's a conspiracy I know ... I can handle putting this blog up in Korean coz I know where to click even if I don't understand what's written on the buttons ... but the software to resize my pictures so I can put them on my blog is in German .. and I don't know it .. so I'm pooched! The problem in these internet places where international riff raff hang out ..

Ahh well later for the pics ...

The adventure continues ...

2006-04-09T03:33:00.000-07:00

Well Nha Trang was a blast .... Vietnam's Brighton ... but much nicer and cheaper.

I started out with an afternoon at the mud baths just north of Nha Trang ... such fun! You get to soak in a big tub of warm mud (fresh mud for each person), dry off, get sprayed by high pressure mineral water, then soak in the hot mineral baths ... there's also a hot waterfall and a lovley swimming pool ... I finished it off with an hours massage ... divine!! All for less that $10.00

I didn't take pictures ... kind of hard when you're covered in mud! .. so here's a link if you want to see what it's all about. http://www.thapbahotspring.com/

Another delight in Nha Trang was the diving .. I had been warned not to expect too much from another diver I talked to in Hoi An, but signed up for a two dive package ... the dive site was about an hours boat ride away and was amazing ... lot's of different corals, and an incredible diversity of life ... and good visibility to boot! I signed up to do the advanced open water course ... five dives one of which was a "deep dive" (see photo of the dive computer recording 29.5 metres). Another of the dives was an underwater photography course. I rented the underwater digital camera and was I was able to get some amazing shots .. what a world under there!

The picture of the guy trying to get airborne with the parasail is me ... I've lost some weight .. but not that much evidently ... I did get airborne eventually!!

This morning I got the bus down to Mui Ne ... a lovley strentch of beach known for it's kite surfing ... it looks thrilling .. but I think I will give it a miss and just watch ... got myself some good books to read!

After here I'm off to Saigon .. or Ho Chi Minh City if you are being politically correct ... I'm going to get some dental work done at a Dental Clinic there that is Canadian owned ... sounds good .. wish me luck! http://www.maplehealthcare.net/english/index.php

I tried to change my ticket so I could return to Canada directly from Saigon, but Cathay Pacific won't allow it. Flights to Bangkok from Saigon are really expensive for some reason ... so I think I will fly lo cost Tiger Airways to Singapore and then Krabi, in Southern Thailand for one last frolic in the Andaman Sea ... expecting to then head up to Bangkok and home about May 3.

Nha Trang Pictures

2006-04-08T03:56:00.000-07:00

2006-04-02T07:27:00.000-07:00

Hey Andrew! Over here!!!!

I had been in Nha Trang for less than an hour, checked into my hotel .. and decided to check out my new surrounding when I heard my self paged from the Bia Hoi across the street.

It turned out to be Loughland and his sister Bridgit and freind Kelly, with whom I'd spent an enjoyable day touring the Tombs of the Emporers in Hue almost week ago ... and an even more enjoyable couple of evenings in Madame Thu's Travellers Bar, Cafe on Thu Wheels ....

I suppose I should explain what a Bia Hoi is ... a keg of beer on the sidewalk .. or a little hole in the wall, a plastic tube to serve it into two litre plastic jugs (like javex bottles) a few glasses and tiny plastic stools .. instant bar. Sit down and have a beer and mix with the locals .... fun, fun, fun. Cost? 6000 dong a litre .... (.40cents canadian)

I spent the last four days in Hoi An, a charming old french town on the river, 4 kms from a great beach. Their speciality is tailoring ... so I got myself a who new wardrobe .. to go with my svelte (ok not quite so fat) new figure., along with a couple of pairs of shoes .. all for way less than I'd pay for cheap stuff at Giant Tiger!

Vietnam is soooo differenct from Laos and Thailand. The energy of these folks ... some of the most entraprenaurial, hardworking totally indefatigable people I've ever met. The hassle factor is high ... everyone wants to sell something .... and it seems everyine has something to sell .. and they can be very persistant. I thought I'd avoid all the sweet young girls trying to get me to their mothers tailor shop inb Hoi An by renting a bicycle ... no way ... cant' go anywhere and theres a motorcycle alongside ... with that sweet young girl telling you to come visit her mothers tailor shop ... really good prices .. just come and look ....

That being said, the service here is superb! A feeling that folks really want you to be happy ... really care. Despite the hustle, the hospitality I've seen has been real, warm and genuine ... people want you to be here .. (spend money) .. and to come back. Everyone it seems wants to talk to you.

The Hotel in Hoi An for example ... for $18.00 US a night I got a lovley room, a/c, balcony, pool, bathtub, sattelite tv, fruit basket in the room refilled each day, free internet, breakfast, drinks arond the pool 6:30 to 7:30 ... and a silk latern when I checked out .... but the best was the staff ... they remebered you by name, and were so freindly and courteous. ... That's competition for you ...

Vietnam is on the move. This country has suffered so much .. the bomb craters are everwhere ... people my age with no arms or legs ... people with birth defects caused by agent orange ... many historic sites obliterated ... many areas still no go because of UXO ... but it's recovering ... boy is it recovering ... unstoppable methinks. Incredible engineeering .... I passed thru a tunnel on the way to Hoi An over 6km long, new bridges, buildings ... lot's of change.

Gosh what a stupid war that was .. for the Americans to ever think they could win!

I was speaking to an Australian guy in his sixties at the next table in a restaurant .... he was so full of emotion as he was describing how they used to refer to the Vietnamese as Gooks .... and how much he now admires their spirit, and incredible hospitality to us westerners.

I'm getting spoiled here .. will be hard to come home in some ways.

First Vietnam Pictures ...

2006-03-30T18:36:00.000-08:00

Panic attack ...

2006-03-23T20:33:00.000-08:00

It seems to happen every trip ...

Had a lovley sleep in this morning ... till 10:00 ... leisurly shower etc ... and went to head out the room in search of a good Vietnamese coffee. I went to get my shoulder bag ... the one I keep my passports, camera, notebook, tickets etc ... nowhere to be found ...

Panic .. think back ...

I recall I stopped at an internet cafe just down the street ... a bit of a grungy hole in the wall place ... and recalled I'd taken my bag off my shoulder while checking my email and placed it behind the monitor .. out of reach for someone to grab it ...

I rushed down the street ... which place was it?? they all look the same... except maybe a little grungier in the day light ... I finally I found the place .. checked the computer I was at .. and it wasn't there!!! I looked around ... and there it was .. sitting on a shelf!!! I pointed to it .. and the guy gave it to me with a shrug. Everything was there ... including 100,000 dong ... which I gave the guy ... who seemed rather stunned ... but which changed quickly into a big smile and a handshake ...

... and just in case you are stunned by my genorosity ... $1.00 cdn is about 13,562.o5 dong ... ( but a good days wages in Hanoi!)

So off I went in search of my coffee.

I'm off tomorrow to Halong bay on a two day/one night trip on a Junk .... should be fun .. then I think it's get out of town time to some place a little less frenetic that Ha Noi ...

Today I think I'll go pay my respects to Uncle Ho ... so revered here ... he's on display at his mausoleum ....

Till next ime friends ...

...and more pictures

2006-03-19T20:00:00.000-08:00

Pictures from Luang Prabang

2006-03-19T19:43:00.000-08:00

2006-03-19T05:22:00.000-08:00

It's a hot and steamy night here in Pakse, Southern Laos, unfortuantly I'm talking about the weather and not my social life ....

I got back to Pakse this morning after a couple of nights up on the Bolovan Highlands on my rented motorbike. (not up to Thai standards, sounds like a threshing machine) The first night I spent at Tad Lo .... found a lovley guesthouse overlooking the falls. The lady who ran the place was an older Laotian woman who had studied in France and we were able to have quite a delightful conversation. She ran the place with her children, and had the sweetest pet monkey which seemed to live on her shoulder .. no chain or anything ... It was a quiet evening .. but the food was good and the garden setting delightful.The cicadas chirping in the trees were almost deafaning!

The next day I hired a local guide "Pep" for a "trek" ... a walkabout to visit some villages back in the bush ... he didn't speak much English, but we got along well ... and it was fascinating ... in the space of five or six hours we walked about15 kms and visitd three villages, each speaking a different dialect. It felt ok to be there with someone who know the folks we were visiting rather than being part of a group traipsing thru and gawking. All had a ceremonial hut in the middle for buffalo sacrifices held on the full moon. I managed to get some lovley pictures .. but didn't take them of the people .. didn't feel right ...

Unfortuantly I'm having problems getting the file size of my pictures reduced so I can post them here .... maybe I'll have more luck in Vietnam.

That evening ... exhausted .. it is really hot here ... I rode to Saravan ... the end of the road so as to speak. It's a provincial capital .. but really just a dusty bush town. The red earth and general state of develpment really reminded me of my days in Lesotho in the early seventies. There were no falangs in town, except a few involved in aid agencies ... CARE, OXFAM and the UXO people ...

UXO (unexploded ordinance left over from the war) is such a huge problem in Laos, even today. Many are killed each year. If you'd like to know more, here's an interesting link
and here too

It's hard to believe how heavily bombed this country was, it seems so peaceful, as villagers go about thier agrarian lives ... my experiance of Laotians has been that of some of the most peaceful and respectful people I've ever met. I knew the US adventures in South East Asia were wrong in the sixties ... but it is hitting me hard how diabolically insane the bombing and fighting was, and how little responsibility is being taken for the mess left behind, which is still killing men, women and children.

I was the only one in the Hotel in Salavan ... a bit of a dreary place, and rode back to Pakse quite early this morning to escape the heat ... it was a great ride ... lot's of folks are out and about early morning ... the road was full of people, tuk tuks, bikes, geese, pigs, monks gathering alms, water buffalo and even the odd elephant.

Well it's off to Vientiene tomorrow on the "VIP" bus .. woo hoo .... an overnight a/c bus service that advertises movies, water and dinner ... we will see ... please no karaoke!!

After that it's on to Hanoi, where I'm told to expect a complete change of pace ....

So that's all for this post folks ....

2006-03-10T02:10:00.000-08:00

It seems they came out in reverse order ....

Hurtling down the Mekong ....

2006-03-10T01:50:00.000-08:00

I'm now in Luang Prabang, Laos .... Arrived here last night from having purchased a package deal from Chaing Mai, which included minibus to Chiang Khong - 5 hours north, Hotel, Visa help, transport across the Mekong to Laos and a six hour speed boat trip down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. Everything worked out as promised, but i began to get a little concerned when I saw the speedboat ... and then they handed out crash helmets and life jackets, and offered to sell us earplugs for $2.00! These things are the most uncomfortable conveyance I have ever ridden in .. or on .. They travel at 100kmh .. thru rapids, shoals .. what have you. The picture above is of one arriving at the spot we stopped for lunch ... They are powered by souped up 1400cc toyota engines .. with no muffler.

Anyways .. Luang Prabang is delightful ... it's a UNESCO world heritage site ... and no wonder .. one of the most atmospheric places I've been to .. surronded by jungle clad hills .. on the banks of the Mekong .... it has French Architecture in the old town, plus many Buddhist Wats and some great restaurants ... I got up early this morning to witness the monks doing their alms rounds ... quite a site.

Pictures are not going where i want them on this blog .. so I'll stop writing and post some more pictures ... They should be .. in order ... some market pictures, including an amazing fondue (for 2.50) in Chaing Mai ... a picture of an elephant and anither one from an elephants back ... and a picture of a Wat

2006-03-04T04:00:00.000-08:00

Off on another motorcycle tour from Chiang Mai while I wait for my Vietnam visa to be processed.

Yesterday I stopped at the Elephant Conservation Centre enroute to the provincial capital, Lampang. Felt like a real tourist ... but it was great .. I got mixed in with a school group of 70 or so giggling 6or 7 year olds for the tour. There is something qute special about these huge beasts ... I went for a ride on one for about an hour in the jungle ... the mahout sat on his neck, I in the seat strapped onto it's back, holding an umbrella as we lumbered thru the jungle - very much the great white toursit - but it was a good experience ... very peaceful ... the mahout sang and talked to the elephant all the way ... stopping occasionally for it to drink or grab some begetation to eat.

I visited the elephant hospital .. very touching .. where sick and ageing elephants are taken care of, then watched the show .. a demonstration of 20 or so elephants at work. I must admit I found the whole visit quite an emotional experience .. there is something quite special about these large peaceful animals ... and the extremly close relationship with their mahouts ...

Lampang is a pleasant change after Chaing Mai, smaller .. and very few falangs (westerners) The first night I spent in the Asia Lampang hotel ... a modern 70's style hotel ... lot's of teak panelling ... a grand lobby .. full facilities ... I was so hot after riding in, I splurged on a deluxe room - air conditioned, huge, kinbg sized bed ... etc ... for the grand sum of $16.00 I slept in and was woked by drumming .... I went down for breakfast about 9:00 to be confronted with a wedding procession proceeding thru the lobby complete with giant drum pounding... quite a sight!

Lampang is quite charming ... lot's of horse drawn carriages, parks, on the banks of a river, with a great night market.

Today I rode 75kms north to a National Park with hot springs ... quite lovley .. you can swim in the pools .. a bit murky though ... or rent a private jacuzzi thing with the healing waters ... I had lunch, chose the latter .. . and followed it up with a Thai Massage. Good day.

I'm staying tonight at the Riverside Guesthouse ... much more funky than the Asia Hotel ... totally charming.

It's getting hotter ... up to almost 40 in the heat of the afternoon ... I try to ride in the morning or late afternoon ... and hole up between 1:00 and 4:00 in the afternoons ... In the evenings the night markets come to life .. amazing places .. all kinds of food ... you can buy anything at them!

Getting hungry here ... so that's where I'm off to ...

A few more photos ...

2006-02-27T22:27:00.000-08:00

Here are a few more photos ... first Singapore ... and then .. yummy .. fried insects!
The cave pictures are of the Lod Caves which I visited on a motorcycle trip north of Chiang Mai ... incrdible . huge .. you traverse thru sections on bamboo rafts .. millions of bats swirl at the entrances ..
The riverside scene is the balcony of my guesthouse in Soppong .. followed by Haley, Tenzin and his brother enjoying a fine meal and .. heavan ... a foot massage!
Then you see my bike .. 115cc ... did a three day 600km trip on it .. went great ... but seat did get hard!

Happy in Pai ....

2006-02-24T06:50:00.000-08:00

Well I arrived in Pai today ... rode my rental Yamaha 115 cc wonder thru the mountains from Chaing Mai today .. what a lovley ride. It's a winding road thru mountainous jungle ... with occasional vistas ... and hot springs dotted along the way.

I arrived in Chaing Mai on the 20th .. whenever that was .. losing track of time here ..

It was great to be met at Chiang Mai airport not by one friend, but two ..... Tenzin from Saskatoon was visiting with his brother, a doctor ... who speaks not a word of English ... but we had a great time. The day after I arrived we all chipped in and rented a Suzuki 4wd and went to the highest point in Thailand .. abt 100 km west of Chiang Mai. It was lovely and cool up there, and there are amazing gardens and two huge stupas ... dedicated to the king and queen of Thailand. Pictures in a few days I hope ..

Upon out return to Chiang Mai we all went for a foot massage ... a Thai speciality ... based very much on reflexology ... and very, very pleasant. We finished the day off with one of the best meals I've ever had ... at the Whole Earth Restaurant.

Tenzin and his brother left the next day ...

I've been going for Thai Massages just about every day ... they are very good ... sort of like assisted yoga. I went for my first one in Wat Po, in Bangkok, and am going to the ones associated with temples. You can get them on the beach, and there's lot's of places in the towns .. but by going to the temple you know you are getting the real thing by competant practitioners. Many of the temples have massage schools attached top them .. if you'd like to know more .. here's an interesting article that describes the process. http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A53545-2004Jul15.html The cost here is 120 Baht .. or abt $3.50 Cdn

Well better get to bed here .. riding to Mae Hong Song tomorrow - with any luck, (it's on the Burmese Border) ... bye for now ..

More pics ...

2006-02-24T06:37:00.001-08:00

The order of these is a bit mixed up ... depending on how this turns out .. we should have a picture of the Emerald pool ... a thermally heated jungle pol south of Krabi .. followed by a view from my room on Koh Si Chang. Then we have a boat on the river in Bangkok. The airplane picture is of northern Alaska ... and the chariot thing a Saamlor .. they are powered by car engines .. they were banished from Bangkok a few years ago and ended up in Koh Si Chang.
Then we have a shot of Buddha's feet .. and detail .. at Wat Po in Bangkok
And that's all folks ... for now ...

More pics ...

2006-02-24T06:37:00.000-08:00

Pictures ... finally ...

2006-02-24T06:25:00.000-08:00

All these pics were taken around Krabi in the Andaman Sea ... except the last, which is the beach I stayed on Koh Si Chang, 100 km south east of Bangkok ...

....at the gate ....

2006-02-20T00:22:00.000-08:00

Geez ..they even have free internet at the gate ...

And little lounges with couches and different tv channels .... like the discovery channel .. National Geographic ... and stations on the way to the gate where youi can sit in this contraption and get your legs and feet massaged ... the only airport in the world to ffer this free service the sign proudly proclaims!

At each gate there's an X-ray machine and security check to go thru ... you just can't be too careful it seems ...

.....observations about Singapore ...

2006-02-19T22:56:00.000-08:00

Free 15 mins internet at the airport ... the nicest airport I've ever been in!

Immigration card has written on back .. in red ... Death for drug smugglers under Singapore Law

no grafitti ... anywhere.

Ads for Community Mediation Services to settle quarrels on the Subway

Some Taxis are hydrogen powered

Chewing gum is illegal .. you can't buy it anywhere

Big ads for shared car program - drop foo and pick up at designated points

No garbage, recycling bins everywhere

Highest rate of hme ownership in the world

times up ... I'm off to Chiang Mai!

Stuffed in Little India

2006-02-18T05:03:00.000-08:00

I've just stuffed myself on a great Indian meal in the Little India district of Singapore. What a town! 5.5 million people crammed onto this little Island .. super clean, urbanised, amazing infrastructure, shop till you drop, multi ethnic, very organized, very controlled, incredible food .. so many choices, english speaking, IT heavan!

I'm staying in a hostel out in the 'burbs .. interesting place .. they bill themselves as a "boutique hostel" You get a private "room" maybe 7"X8" ... a futon on the floor, tv, a/c, a few shelves ... almost like the capsule hotels I've seen in artiucles about Japan. It's all very tasteful .. designer fabrics, decor etc .. ultra modern and clean shared bathroom facilities, kitchen, internet, lounge etc ... about $37.00CDN a night ... not bad for Singapore ... which is one of the more expensive Asian cities.

Singapore itself is booming. I had a fascinating discussion with the restaurant owner in Little India .. the Govt here just brought down a budget that is giving huge handouts to the poor, aged and students ... a reaction to globalization and the success of multinationals and gov't owned corporations .. which hasn't trickeled down to the people. Never the less, the average per capita income here is the highest in Asia .. over $24,000 a yr .. and it has the highest rate of home ownershil in Asia. Cars have to pay huge fees to drive, and the MRT - an underground Metro is just incredible. You buy a card, that you just wave at the barrier to get on and out of staions, and it automatically comes off the card - when it runs low, you put it in a machine and feed the machine cash or credit card ... and off u go again. Some of the Taxis are hydrogen powered.

My ear infection was still with me this morning, so I went to a clinic .. super modern ... and got some better drops .. it seems a lot better this evening. I spent the day wandering around the city .. and bought myself a new digital camera and a basic cell phone ... abt 20% cheaper than Canada. So with any luck, I'll have some good pictures to share soon and can talk to you all!

I go back to Thailand on Monday .. am looking forward to that. Singaporeans are very friendly .. but the city just pulses with energy .. Thailand is so much more laid back ... my kind of people!

2006-02-16T04:26:00.000-08:00

I've been in Krabi a week now .. and what a great week! I finished my Open Water SCUBA diving ... very much enjoyed it. We went out to two little islands about an hour off shore, and did three dives the first day, and two the next. The area I was diving in was hit directly by the Tsunami, and while the coral was damaged a bit, it's recovering .... the water was not terribly clear, we have been having rough seas and thunderstorms in the late afternoon for the last five days .. but the coral was wonderful .. lot's of fish, including lot's that looked just like Nemo. Saw a nice stingray and a moray eel.

I've moved to another hotel .. a little cheaper .. but still great .. love the name .. the Goodream Guesthouse ... very friendly with a good restaurant and email.

The company I took my SCUBA course from, offer liveaboard trips to the Tarantoa (sp?) National Marine Park south of here ... giving some thought to coming back here in April to do one.

I've rented a small motorbike ... a Honda Wave .. four gears .. no clutch, 125 cc of raw power. $4.50 a day. Just about everyone rides a small bike here ... kids to grandmothers, and they outnumber the cars by far. It's not uncommon to see a whole family ... Mum Dad and one or two kids on them ... You are supposed to wear a helmet in town ... not many do ... and when they do .. it's just the driver who wears one ... Gas works out to about .80cents a litre - cost me $2.50 to fill the tank for over 200 km of riding fun!

Yesterday I took it on a 60km or so trip to the Emerald or Crystal pool ... a swimming hole in the jungle fed by a hot spring ... very refreshing .... refeshment that continued all the way home as the heavans opened for the afternoon thunderstorm. When I hit Krabi, the cops were diverting traffic from the main drag into town because of flooding!

This morning it was off early in the morning (to escape the heat) to Tiger Cave Temple .... which has a shrine on top of a limestone karst that you climb up to ... exhausting .. 1227 steps ... and we are talking really steep ones to the top ... there's a huge buddha, a stupa ... and an incedible view .... was worth it however ...

Tomorrow it's off to Singapore for the weekend .... sounds glamorous huh? Tiger Airways has just started serving Krabi on it's Singapore run, and has a special, I also got a cheapie from Singapore up to Chiang Mai, where I will connect with a friend from Edmonton, Halley, and his Thai partner. Tenzin from Saskatoon is also there visiting with his brother, and I just heard from Kayliah McKinnon, Uncle Niel's daughter that she plans on taking a massage course in Chaing Mai at the ned of the month ... looks like a Saskatoon convergence may be in the offing!

Well that's all for now ... still working on a way to get pictures up on this thing some easy way ...

Sunday Afternoon in Krabi

2006-02-12T00:37:00.000-08:00

It's Sunday afternoon and I'm sitting in the lobby of my hotel .. the Ban Chaofa, in Krabi, on the south Andaman Coast in Thailand, sipping a Chang beer ...

I got here three days ago on the overnight train from Bangkok - 2nd class sleeper .... basic but fine, and a three hour bus ride. On Friday I went on a boat tour ... 4 Islands, snorkling and lunch .. lot's of fun! On the way back we ran into a squall ... big waves. We were riding in a longtail boat .... quite the trip. They have a motor mounted on high on the back with a long propeller shaft .. make a heck of a racket .. and go like hell.

I've just come back from a day in a swimmng pool .. I'm taking the PADI open water scuba course. Tomorrow it's off in another longtail to do my first two open oceon dives .. quite a rush. I'm really enjoying the course .. learning a lot ...

The country around here is quite spectacular .. lot's of limestone "karsts" both on the land and as islands .. absolutley stunning.

Hopefully I'll get my photos transferred from my camera and be able to put more pictures up.

Anyways .. gotta run .. I'm starving ... it's off to the pier for a bowl of noodles ..

2006-02-08T03:16:00.000-08:00

Happy 25th Birthday Nicole!!!

I have half an hour before my train leaves for the south, sitting in Hua Lamphong Station in Bangkok. I'm headed for Krabi .. the jumping off point for many of the better known Andaman Islands on the south west coast of Thailand. The train is an overnight one, and I've booked a second class A/C sleeper ... upper berth - the lower is supposed to be better but they were all booked .. so we will see.

A moment ago the station lights dimmed, everyone stood up and faced the big portrait of the king, and the National Anthem was played.

I'm really falling in love with many aspects of Thailand.

The food is equisite. Everything imaginable, and then some! I've yet to have a bad meal or something I didn't like. So many flavours .. lemon grass, ginger, garlic .. and many others I don't know. It doesn't matter if you are eating at the most humble street stall, where a bowl of noodles - with veggies and meat will set you back a whopping 20 baht (70 cent CDN) or splurging in a truly fancy place (maybe 200 baht for a meal ... the presentation is always equisite, the flavours distinctive - although i must confess that some chicken and rice dish I had this morning was so spicy it almost took my face off ... but it was sooo good!

Following my idyllic three days on Ko Sichang, I've spent the last couple of days in Bangkok ... getting my shots, doing a little shopping. Unfortuantly my efforts to get my cell phone up and running have failed ... the europeans here seem to have no problem, but the local SIM cards don't seem to work in mine. Internet is everywhere though .. so I may not bother.

It will be a bit of a relief to get out of Bangkok .. it really is an intense place! I have never seen such traffic! Abusy bustling place. Street stalls to mega malls .. and I mean MEGA, The ladies shoe department in one store was bigger than a floor of the Bay in midtown!

Fortuantly the new skytrain whisks you around above all the chaos ... a taxi ride across town could take an awful long time otherwise.

Well .. better run here - got a train to catch! ... stay tuned for the next installment!

The Dharmachef has landed ....

2006-02-03T07:12:00.000-08:00

Gosh ... where to begin? Today was pretty good. Exceptional in fact.

After a cappuchino and fresh pastries, I caught a motorcycle taxi to the dock (a bit scary), took the boat to the island of Ko Si Chang where I rented a small motorbike and explored the island a bit before settling on a beach I liked. After a lovley lunch - stirfried veggies with fresh seafood, it was time for a little snooze ... and then a Thai Masssage on the beach (a bit of a cross between extreme physio, accupressure and assisted yoga). Before heading back to the ferry I visited one of the many Wats (Buddhist temples) which has a number of caves in which there are hermit monks. Then it was the 6:00 PM sunset ferry back to Si Racha where I'm staying in a hotel built on stilts over the sea.

After a shower I went shopping in a futuristic mall .... fed an elephant on the street sugarcane (what a trip .. such sensitive trunks .. they really connect with you) .... chickened out trying the fried insects (4 kinds to cheoose from yet) from street vendors, and settled for springrolls and noodles in the market. After a little shopping in the mall ... (very futuristic - bout the size of midtown .. but way more modern and swanky in parts) On the way home to my hotel I stopped at this tres chic internet cafe and french bakery and decided to set up this blog.

Thailand is really incredible ... full of surprises ... contrasts ... and magic. My first impressions of Thais have been of extremly friendly, respectful and aware people.

I arrived last Monday in Bankok ... 18 hours of flying ... very tiring but great service on Cathay Pacific. I treated myself to a soft landing in a comfortable hotel. I got my shots at a very modern travel clinic - way cheaper than Canada and very thoroug. I'm getting all that was reccomended - typoid, Japanese Encephalitis, Hep a and b, tetanus and rabies. I have to go back for followup shots on Tuesday, so decided to escape bustling Bankok for Si Racha and the island of Ko Si Chang for a few days.

Well the cafe is closing ... so that's all for now folks!!